Archive for May, 2008

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 12

Sunday, May 25th, 2008

Draft of my journal entry for walk 12 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did yesterday.

Walk 12 24/05/08 – Coombe Hill and the Hampdens (12.5 miles approximately)
Parked in car park at Coombe Hill.

Note: this walk follows the route of the ‘Coombe Hill and the Hampdens’ walk in the Chiltern Hills section of my web site, but in the opposite direction.

I could possibly have done this walk yesterday, Friday, but it was drizzling steadily as I had breakfast and it looked like it was going to be grey and overcast. Having done this walk (or slight variations on it) several times before, I really wanted to do it on a nice day so that I could get some reasonable photos. So I put the walk off until today, even though that meant walking on the Saturday of a Bank Holiday Weekend, when there would be more people about. As I didn’t have to worry about rush hour traffic, I just had the one cup of coffee at breakfast, and set out from Kensworth almost half an hour earlier than usual. Consequently I managed to start the walk at about 9.05am.

I went through the gate from the car park into the National Trust land on top of Coombe Hill. Three paths go off in different directions from the gate – the middle path is the most widely used one, going straight to the monument on top of the hill, but that would be my return route. I took the path going left, fairly close to some gardens on my left, with an open area of gorse and other bushes to my right. After a few hundred yards I came to a metal kissing-gate in the fence on my left. I went through it into a beech wood – I was now on the route of the Ridgeway, which I’d be following for a few miles as far as Whiteleaf Hill, and also on the route of the South Bucks Way which starts (or ends) at Coombe Hill.

The path weaved its way between the beech trees – I noticed some Yellow Archangel, Garlic Mustard and Woodruff growing here. I soon came to a road (the car park where I’d started was along it to my left) where I turned right and went downhill for a hundred yards or so. I went a few yards along a track on the left, before going over a stile and entering another beech wood. The path was initially close to a field on my left, but then went over another stile in a wooden fence on the right, and then moved further into the wood. Every hundred yards or so there were signposts with the white acorn sign depicting the Ridgeway National Trail – the path was reasonably clear today, but when the ground is covered in autumn leaves, the frequent signposts here are invaluable. As always it was a pleasure to walk through a beech wood like this. After half a mile or so, the Ridgeway came to a wide track, where it turned right, heading fairly steeply downhill.

Towards the bottom of the hill there was a bridleway crossing (here the South Bucks Way went left towards Little Hampden, where I’d cross its route again later today). Going straight on, I was now in a thin belt of trees with field either side. I heard some voices here, and discovered two horse riders in the field on the right who were obviously lost – I told them about the bridleway I’d just crossed, and they eventually made their way towards it. The tree belt ended by a farm and some cottages on a bend in a road. I crossed over and continued along a path on the other side – there was a security camera at the start of the path, as Chequers was now a short distance away to my right (the last time I walked round here, I met a policemen armed with a sub-machine gun – there must be some pretty unsavoury characters living round here! ).

There has been a house at Chequers since the 12th century. The name possibly comes from the Chequers (or Wild Service) tree that grows in the grounds, or from the fact that the original owner Elias Ostiarius was an Usher at the Court of Exchequer and so included a chequer board on his coat of arms. The current house is 16th century, and was restored and enlarged by John Hawtrey in 1565. Soon after, he was given the responsibility of keeping a royal prisoner – Lady Mary Grey, sister of the unfortunate Lady Jane Grey. A later owner married a grandson of Oliver Cromwell, and the house still has a collection of Cromwell memorabilia. During World War I the house served as a hospital and then a convalescent home for officers. In 1918, the owners Lord and Lady Lee of Fareham presented the house to the nation for use as a country residence by the Prime Minister.

The path followed a wire fence on my right through a small arable field dotted with a few trees and bushes, then went through wooden kissing-gates either side of the tree-lined drive to Chequers – the Lodges at the end of the drive were just a few yards to my left The path continue alongside another fence, with large meadows either side. Ahead I could see an attractive brick-built farm, with a backdrop of a wooded hillside. At the end of the meadows, I turned right onto a path running alongside a wood on my left. To my right, I could see across the meadows to Chequers, with Coombe Hill beyond surmounted by its tall monument. Ahead of me I could see the distinctive outline of Beacon Hill. After some distance I reached a gate, and carried on across a large pasture containing cows and calves. As I crossed it, views started to open out ahead of me over the Vale of Aylesbury. This path is marked ‘Cradle Footpath’ on the map, but I have not been able to discover the origin of the name. The path continued into another pasture – this was empty of cattle today, and unlike the previous one had numerous trees and bushes dotted about. I spotted some Common Rock-rose growing here. Again there were good views down the hillside and across the Vale of Aylesbury – I took a short detour to the top of a small hillock called Chequer’s Knap for a wider view.

My route then went through a kissing gate by a huge old beech tree, and turned right down a broad track. After just a few yards I came to another junction, where I turned left (the North Bucks Way starts here, continuing straight on, a fingerpost indicating that it went 35 miles to Wolverton). There was some yellow Welsh Poppies growing here. The path now contoured through an area of short grassland studded with bushes, with the wooded slopes of Pulpit Hill to my left and some paddocks over to the right. There were still views out to the Vale of Aylesbury, and a nice view ahead to the wooded slopes of Whiteleaf Hill, with Bledlow Copse beyond it on the horizon. Although sunny, it was very hazy so the views were not as far reaching as they can be on clear days.

I crossed over a chalky track, where I spotted Silverweed and Germander Speedwell, and continued gently downhill through a nature reserve – more chalky grassland and bushes. There seem to be two alternative routes for the Ridgeway here – the map shows a different route, but there were still the white acorn signs along this path. Beyond the reserve, the path continued beside the long fence of a house to my right – a distant dog just looked at me and decided to ignore me today, sometimes it runs along the fence barking. At the end of the path I turned left along a road, soon forking right to reach The Plough pub at Cadsden. I turned right, behind the pub, but soon forked left, starting the long and quite steep climb up through the trees to Whiteleaf Hill. There was a lot of attractive blue spikes of Bugle growing beside the chalky path. I stopped at one point to look out through a gap to my left, over a wooded valley (called The Hanging on the map). I took the climb very slowly, and wasn’t too out of breath when I emerged from the trees onto the grass at the top of Whiteleaf Hill.

Whiteleaf Hill sits in a prominent position on the Chiltern escarpment overlooking Monks and Princes Risborough. At its top sits a Neolithic Barrow, dating back to about 3500BC. There are also possible round barrows, a bronze-age dyke and WWI practice trenches here. The hill is cloaked in ancient woodland and flower rich chalk grassland. Carved on its steep chalk slope is Whiteleaf Cross, whose origins are unknown although a phallic symbol on the hillside here is recorded in a document of 903. The first reference to a cross was in 1742, and it is known that the shape of the cross and the symbol below it have been changed since then.

I photographed the Neolithic Barrow and admired the views over Princes Risborough and the Vale of Aylesbury, but didn’t bother today to wander the few yards down the slope to see the chalk cross carved into the hillside. I continued southwards on a new gravel track, but only for a short distance before turning left onto a bridleway (thus finally parting company with the Ridgeway). The bridleway ran just inside the edge of another beech wood, with a large corn field a few feet to my right. Initially the trees on my left were on a steep slope descending into the wooded valley I’d seen earlier. I passed another walker and a couple of Horse Riders coming the other way. Where the field eventually ended, I turned right, the path through the trees again staying close to the field on my right. I soon came to a junction of paths on the edge of the wood, and turned left, on a bridleway between the wood on my left and another large arable field on my right. Again, at the end of the field I turned right, on another woodland path following the edge of the field. I saw Yellow Archangel, Herb Robert and Woodruff amongst the flowers growing here, and near the end of the path managed to photograph a Speckled Wood butterfly.

The path ended along the drive to a house, beyond which I turned left along a minor road (this section of the route was very much ‘left, right, left, right’). Where the field to the right of the road ended, I again went right, with another section of wood on my left. The path soon turned left and ran through the trees, with the main escarpment of the Chilterns dropping away to my right – there were one or two openings in the trees giving views out to the Vale of Aylesbury. I passed a woman walking her three dogs – she commented on the smell of some wildflowers she’d just been past. This was a very pleasant section of walking, on a clear level path through the woods. At the end I went through a gate and turned left along a drive for a few yards to reach a road in the hamlet of Parslow’s Hillock. I went right for a short distance, then turned left beside the Pink and Lily pub.

The Pink and Lily pub is associated with the poet Rupert Brooke, who discovered it on one of his walks in the Chilterns and became quite a regular visitor in the years immediately before World War I. His most famous poem is possibly The Soldier with its opening lines
“If I should die, think only this of me:
that there’s some corner of a foreign field
that is for ever England”.
Brooke died of blood poisoning in 1915 while on the way to Gallipoli.

I followed the lane (which would eventually become just a track through the valley of Lily Bottom) for about quarter of a mile – I have twice before seen Muntjac Deer here, but not today. I turned left onto a bridleway, briefly on the route of the Chiltern Way again but leaving it almost immediately by turning onto a path starting behind the cottage garden on my right. This path ran along through another beech wood, with gardens and then fields nearby on my right. Again it was very pleasant following the slightly meandering path between beech trees and holly bushes. Eventually I came to a wooden fence, where I turned left, keeping to the left of the fence – the path on this side is for walkers, the path on the other side is for horses. The wood now changed to being a mixture of deciduous and coniferous trees.

The path ended at a crossroads, which I crossed diagonally and took the leftmost of two paths going back into the woods. I was only amongst the trees for a short while, soon emerging on the edge of a cricket pitch I Hampden Common. I followed the edge of the pitch to a lane, where I went left a few yards to where it ended at a minor road. A drive continued on the other side to a few houses – where it soon turned sharply left, a footpath continued ahead. This ran between a small wood on my left (where I heard a Chiffchaff) and a meadow. It then crossed a field of oil-seed rape – here there was a long line of beautiful Field Pansies on the right edge of the path. Beyond this field, there was a small mound set amongst trees on my right – the map indicates that it’s of historic interest, but gives no clue as to what it was for. There seemed to be the remains of a small moat around it, but it seemed too small to serve any defensive purpose. I wondered if it was the site of a windmill, as it seemed similar to a couple of such sites that I’ve come across on other walks.

The path continued alongside a fence between some grassy meadows to reach the church at Great Hampden. I immediately twigged a wedding was about to be celebrated, as the door was decorated with a garland and there were a couple of smartly dressed women standing outside. I followed the path through the churchyard, going left of the church, and turned left along a drive – there were signs here for the ‘Wedding Car Park’ and I saw more smartly attired people turning up for the big occasion. I soon turned right onto a footpath (joining the Chiltern Way again). This crossed another meadow, with a ha-ha (a wall or, as in this case, a fence, sunk in a deep ditch so that it doesn’t spoil the view) with Hampden House beyond. The house was presumably being used for the wedding reception, as the car park was in its grounds and there were more smartly dressed guests in the garden.

Hampden House in Great Hampden is named after the Hampden family (later Earls of Buckingham), who owned the site from before the Norman Conquest until 1938. The present house dates in part to the 14th century, though most of the house is 17th century. The north and west ranges were remodelled by the architect Thomas Iremonger in 1750, clearly in the style known as Strawberry Hill Gothic although this style wasn’t ’ invented’ until almost 20 years later by Horace Walpole! This architectural style made the house a favourite setting for Hammer horror films. Visitors to the house are thought to include Edward III, the Black Prince and Elizabeth I. The most famous resident was John Hampden, the leading Parliamentarian in the years leading up to the Civil War, who died from wounds received at the Battle of Chalgrove in 1643. He had earlier earned fame through his refusal to pay the hated tax called Ship Money to Charles I.

The path then entered Lady Hampden’s Wood – I soon passed a family coming the other way, and a bit further on passed some sort of huge Redwood tree. There was some more Bugle and some Wood Speedwell here. Beyond the wood I followed a path heading diagonally downhill to a distant corner of a huge corn field. I was now crossing the large valley of Hampden Bottom. As I neared the field corner, I met a couple of walkers coming the other way – this being a Bank Holiday Saturday there were far more people about than on my usual mid-week walks. I crossed the road running through the valley bottom, and continued on a path opposite, which ran through a thin belt of trees curiously named Coach Hedgerow – the path here was certainly a lot clearer than when I first came here on the Chiltern Way three years ago. There was a wide variety of wildflowers growing here – Bluebells (as everywhere else, fading away badly now), Wood Avens, Herb Robert, Greater Stitchwort, Yellow Archangel, Germander Speedwell. Where a farm track crossed the tree belt, I turned right and followed a path across the corner of a corn field and then across a narrow meadow.

I stopped to eat my lunch on an impressive wooden seat, with a nice view back across Hampden Bottom. I saw a pair of Orange Tip butterflies while I munched away. It had been bright and sunny for most of the morning, but now I noticed that it had clouded over. I continued on my way, passing through a small belt of trees where I found some Sanicle, the first I’ve come across. My route then turned right on a permissive path which followed the edge of a corn field, where I saw some Common Field Speedwell, and then entered another wood, where I soon turned left at a path junction. After a short distance the path left the wood and continued between hedgerows for a couple of hundred yards to reach a track or drive which led to the lane into Little Hampden. Briefly repeating part of my previous walk, I followed the lane left as far as the Rising Sun pub – whereas last time I turned left onto a footpath here, today I went half-left on a bridleway.

The bridleway descended almost imperceptibly through yet another wood for several hundred yards (I passed some Wood Avens and Yellow Pimpernel here) before dropping quite steeply to a valley bottom. I continued on it as it turned slightly right and gradually rose up the opposite side, still in the trees. There was again a wide variety of wildflowers beside the path, including Herb Robert, Bugle, Germander Speedwell, Wood Speedwell, Wood Spurge and some more Sanicle. At the top of the hill I reached a bridleway junction, where I turned left. At first I was on a track along the edge of the wood, but soon passed a house and garden and the track became more of a lane, running between hedges and fields either side. Through gaps in the right-hand hedge I could see across a wide valley to Boddington Hill and Wendover Woods, where I’d started Walk 5. I could also see some quite threatening grey clouds, so I hurried on my way along the lane. I soon reached the attractive hamlet of Dunsmore, passing the small chapel on my right and coming to a crossroads of lanes by a pond on my left.

Dunsmore is a hamlet in the parish of Ellesborough and, like nearby Little Hampden, is one of the most remote places in Buckinghamshire. It is accessible only by two narrow and steep lanes, and is occasionally cut off in winter. It retains its small community atmosphere, although both its pubs have closed in recent years. The name dates back to Anglo-Saxon times.

I stopped and signed a petition here against increased flight noise from Luton airport, then carried on along the dead-end lane opposite. This passed several old houses and cottages then became a bridleway. At a bridleway fork I went left, back into the woods once more. There were initially fences either side of the bridleway. Over the fence on the right I soon saw a spectacular yellow and pink fungus – I later had it identified on the ‘Wild About Britain’ web site as a ‘Chicken of the Woods’ (I was amazed – that and Fly Agaric are the only fungi names I know!). Further on, the bridleway ran for a good distance beside an old rusting iron fence. After walking through the wood for over half a mile, the bridleway turned half-right just after the iron fence petered out, but I went on ahead, following a path through the trees that was marked by painted yellow arrows. I crossed a broad track (the car park was along it to the left) and went through a kissing-gate into an area of grass and bushes. Initially walking parallel to the wood on my left, the path soon became clear and led through the bushes to the open grass area surrounding the monument on Combe Hill.

Coombe Hill lies just south of Wendover, Buckinghamshire. At 853 feet above sea level, it is one of the highest points in the Chilterns, and there are panoramic views over the Vale of Aylesbury. It is surmounted by a tall column, a memorial to the men of Buckinghamshire who died in the Boer war – the column has twice needed repairing after suffering severe damage from lightning strikes. In 1918 Coombe Hill was given to the National Trust by Lord Lee of Fareham, who also donated the nearby Chequers to the nation for use as the Prime Minister’s country retreat.

It had seemed to brighten up briefly as I’d been walking through the wood from Dunsmore, but it was now very grey again, the views over the Vale of Aylesbury were therefore disappointing, nowhere near as extensive as they are on a clear day. I could still see for several miles, however. There were a lot of people about as it was a Bank Holiday Saturday (I remember having the monument briefly to myself on my Berks-Essex Walk) so I quickly moved on, following a broad grass strip with gorse bushes either side. At the end, a clear path went through some trees and then continued through an open area of grass and gorse back to the car park where I’d started.

It’s immodest of me to say so (as I designed the route!) but I think this is an excellent walk. I’ve done it (or variations of it) several times now and I’m sure I’ll walk it many times again. It’s certainly one of my favourite walks in the Chilterns – there’s hardly a dull footstep throughout the whole twelve and a half miles. There are some really good views, especially from the edge of the escarpment at places like Coombe Hill and Whiteleaf Hill, a lot of enjoyable stretches through woodland interspersed with occasional field paths, several places of historic interest, and plenty of ups and downs. My plodding prose and poor photos really don’t do it justice. The only slight disappointment today was that it clouded over and was quite grey at the end of the walk, so the views at Coombe Hill were not as good as they might have been. But that was just a very minor irritation – the photos I took of a Speckled Wood butterfly, a beautiful Field Pansy and, most of all, the Chicken Of The Woods fungus, were a real bonus.

Total distance: 145.9 miles

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 11

Thursday, May 22nd, 2008

A draft of my journal entry for Walk 11 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did yesterday.

Walk 11 21/05/08 – Cobblershill and Little Kingshill (12.5 miles approximately)
Parked in picnic site car park near Cobblershill.

This was a fine day for a walk – pleasantly cool (varying from11C when I started to about 16C when I finished) and bright, despite there being a lot of large clouds in the sky.

Mine was the only car in the car park as I set off from the picnic site near Cobblershill at about 9.45am. I took the bridleway heading uphill – straight away I saw a wide variety of wildflowers beside the path: Garlic Mustard, Herb Robert, Yellow Archangel, Wood Spurge, Goldilocks Buttercup, Bluebells. The flowers and undergrowth soon disappeared as the bridleway steepened, climbing steadily through a beech wood with a few holly bushes and just dead beech leaves underfoot. I passed an area near the top of the hill where there was a plantation of young trees in plastic tubes, and the bridleway continued through a slightly older plantation of young bushy trees, before returning to the beech trees. I ignored paths going off either side, crossing the route of the Chiltern Way at one point, and stayed on the bridleway until it reached the edge of the wood at a junction where five tracks met.

I took the second turning on the left, following a bridleway between hedges with cows and calves in the first of a sequence of yellow-speckled fields to my right. I soon passed a house on my left and continued on between the hedgerows, where again there were numerous colourful wildflowers. Over the hedge on my left I had a nice view across a wide Chiltern valley, the northward continuation of the Misbourne valley (the river doesn’t actually rise until near Great Missenden, and flows south from there). The bridleway then passed through a small wood and came to a fork, where I went right to continue along the hilltop west of the valley. There was now another cattle pasture on my left. I soon came to a wood, where I turned left on a pleasant path through the trees – I got a glimpse of a Muntjac deer here. The path exited the wood, and turned right in a large sheep pasture, following the edge of the wood.

There was a nice view ahead across the valley here, and I had another wildlife sighting, a Buzzard circling over the sheep pasture. I soon came to a path junction, where I went right over a stile, back into the wood. A narrow but clear path led through the trees, going downhill at an easy gradient. Beyond the wood, it ran between a long garden fence on the left and a tall hedge. It then continued along a drive, where there were nice views along another valley that I was now crossing (the continuation of Hampden Bottom, which I’d cross again later). At the end of the drive, I turned right along a minor road for a hundred yards or so, then took a footpath on the right. This passed a house on the left, then continued between the fence of a paddock with a solitary white horse and a tall hedge on my right. The path then entered a wood, again with a good selection of wildflowers including Yellow Pimpernel, Woodruff and Wood Speedwell. The path rose uphill through the wood, and on the far side I turned left, alongside the wooden fence of some paddocks on my left. I passed a farmyard on the left, and followed its drive to a road in Prestwood.

The name Prestwood is a corruption of Priest-Wood and dates back to Saxon times. Prestwood was originally a large common, spread over several different parishes, and the village only acquired parish status in the late 19th century. The village grew throughout the early 20th century, but the biggest expansion came in the 1960’s and 1970’s. The Labour Prime Minister Clement Attlee once lived in Prestwood, before moving to nearby Great Missenden.

I turned left, and soon came to a crossroads in the village where I went straight on. After another hundred yards or so, I turned left along a narrow alley. Where it ended, I continued along a narrow street ahead of me. Ite ended at a T-junction on the edge of the village, where I turned right but very shortly turned left, along the drive to another farm. I was now on the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail again. Before reaching the farm, the path went right, through a metal gate and continuing between a garage and garden on the left and some orchards on the right. Through another metal gate, I turned left to follow the edge of a large arable field. This turned left and then right, and took me to Atkins’s Wood. I followed the path through this beech wood for about 100 yards, then forked right at a junction marked by arrows painted on trees. The path descended gently through the trees, the route indicated by further white arrows. On the far side of the wood I went through a metal kissing-gate in a fence, and turned right on a bridleway. This ran along for some distance between hedges on either side, to reach a tarmac farm drive which I followed to a lane.

I turned right – the lane was narrow with no verges, and I had to press myself into the hedge when cars went by. But I only had to follow it a short distance as it currved round to the left, before I took a path on the left. This followed a hedge on my right for a while, then continued on across a field towards a corner of a wood, where I went half-right on tractor tracks through an arable field with woods on three sides of it. In the field corner I continued for a short distance through the wood, then the path ran between hedges and fences again, with more fields speckled by yellow buttercups and Dandelions on my right and cattle pastures on my left. The path ended at a pub on a road in Little Kingshill. I crossed over and took the path on the other side. This ran between two houses and then along the right-hand edge of a playing field to reach another road. At this point I met the route of my previous walk (which had just passed the Baptist chapel along the path opposite me).

I turned right here, leaving the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail which went left (as had my previous walk). I crossed a road junction by a pub and after another 100 yards turned right into a small modern close called Shepherd’s Gate (the footpath sign here was half-buried in a holly hedge). The path went over a stile and continued beside some small paddocks or enclosures on the left, then reached a very large field. I followed the hedge on my right, until it turned right, at which point the path went half-left, crossing the large field diagonally to a distant corner. The first half of the field had a young arable crop in it, but the second half of the field seemed to have been left fallow this year – there were numerous wildflowers amongst what looked like last years crop, including beautiful Field Pansies everywhere – there must have been thousands of them in this field.

In the field corner the path passed between some bushes to reach a wide track, where I turned right. After a short distance I turned left through a gate, the path running along a hedge on my right through a large area used for market gardening. There were numerous different crops here in small strips, including cabbages, blackcurrants and strawberries (covered in straw, appropriately enough). I saw a Green Woodpecker here, as I followed the boundary on my left as it turned to the right, now with a mixture of small conifers (presumably future Christmas Trees) on my right. I reached a gate in the fence on my left, and went through it into a wood, almost immediately turning right at a junction and following a path through the trees to a minor road.

Across the road I followed a bridleway for about half a mile through another beech wood, the edge of the wood being a short distance to my left. The bridleway wasn’t too bad today, but had been pretty muddy when I came through here on one of my exploratory walks. On the far side of the wood I turned left, following a fenced path between paddocks obn my left and another wood. This soon came to a drive, beside a stables on my left, which I followed a short distance to a road. This was another bit of Prestwood, with the village church and an infants school on the opposite side of the road.

I followed a path that started beside the infants school. It soon reached an attractive meadow that went up and down either side of a small valley – I spotted a couple of Muntjac deer in the meadow, one quicly ran off but the second remained stationary as I followed the edge of the meadow on my right. The path then went through another small wood – as I reached the far side I saw another Muntjac running off through a field on my right. There were nice views to my left now, as I followed a wire fence along a headland between two fields – the cattle pasture on my left sloped downhill between woods, and I could see across to the far side of a distant valley. I then reached yet another beech wood. Here the path initially went to the right, before turning left alongside and old fence and descending very steeply. This was quite painful for my old knees, but I soon got to the bottom of the slope (probably the steepest section on the Chiltern Chain Walk) and followed the path through a meadow to a lane.

I turned right here – the lane was reasonably wide, but there was no verge so I needed to be careful about the occasional vehicles that passed. I didn’t have far to go anyway, before turning right along a tarmac farm drive. I stayed left at a fork, to pass the farm on my right, and a bit further on continued ahead on a footpath when the drive turned right. I was now following the edge of Nanfan Wood, generally with meadows just a few feet to my right. Again there were a variety of wildflowers in the wood – Greater Stitchwort, Bluebells, Herb Robert, Wintercress (at the start, by the drive), Wood Avens, Yellow Archangel, Woodruff. This was a very pleasant part of the walk, as the path almost imperceptibly went uphill along the bottom of a very shallow valley. Beyond the wood I continued through two very charming and colourful meadows, full of buttercups and Dandelions, most of the latter having turned to seed heads. The path then crossed a more overgrown meadow to reach a lane, where I turned right for a couple of hundred yards to reach a minor junction, in a part of Prestwood once again.

I turned left, and followed the road a short distance, passing some interesting cottages on the right. Beyond the village, a wood started on the right with a fingerpost indicating tow paths going through it. I took the leftmost path through the trees, and followed it for about half a mile. It very gradually started to descend, usually staying close to the edge of the wood on my left. I ignored several paths going off on either side, just kept straight on along the same path. Eventually it turned to the right and a few yards further on reached a path crossroads in the trees. Here I sat on a convenient bench to eat my lunch, before continuing on my way, turning left and following a new path further downhill through the trees. Near the bottom of the hill, I left the wood and crossed a narrow strip of grass called The Glade, with Hampde Housen visible along it to my left.

On the far side I entered another wood, where I was delighted to see a solitary Lesser Celandine flower. For days now I have only seen their dying-off leaves – like the fading Bluebells, an indication of the passing of the seasons. I can’t believe summer is almost upon us – the years just go by quickere and quicker! There are two paths through the samll wood, but today I only saw waymarks for the leftmost one, the one I wanted (though both end at the same point on the far isde anyway).

I turned left along a minor road, the one that runs through the wide valley of Hampden Bottom (I’d crossed the same road earlier just before reaching Prestwood for the first time). There was a good wide verge, recently cut, on the left. After a few hundred yards, where a wood ended on the right, a footpath went right, initially alongside the wood and continuing beside a left-hand hedge, very gradually going uphill. I saw a Red Kite quite nearby here, but failed to get a decent photo. It was a long steady plod, the path beside the hedge very gradually going uphill. After a while the path switched to the left of the hedge, but continued slowly uphill. There were nice views back over Hampden Bottom to the partially wooded hillside beyond, and also over to my left to a wooded hill between Little Hampden and Cobblershill. The path eventually levelled out and reached a track or drive between houses where I turned right to reach the single dead-end lane that services the remote village of Little Hampden.

I turned left, and followed the lane for about a quarter of a mile to near its end. Opposite the Rising Sun pub I turned right, and followed a footpath descending quite steeply through another wood. The narrow path twisted and turned between the trees as it went downhill, then turned right and rose again slightly to reach the edge of the wood. Here I followed a hedge down into the valley bottom (there is a good track to the right of the hedge, but the right-of-way is actually on the left). I saw some more Wintercress growing close to the far end of the hedge, where I entered yet another wood. A good path carried on here, going up the opposite side of the valley, climbing quite steeply through the trees. There was again a very good collection of wildflowers here – Herb Robert, Garlic Mustard, Bugle, Yellow Pimpernel, Bluebells, Woodruff, Wood Spurge, Greater Stitchwort and Germander Speedwell (which is now possibly the flowere I am seeing most often). Near the top of the slope, I crossed another footpath, and a few yards further on reached a bridleway running along the top of the hill, just inside the edge of the wood.

I went left for a few yards, then went over a curious double-stile arrangement to enter a corner of a very large meadow. As usual, this was yellow with buttercups and Dandelions. There was a very attractive view, across the sloping meadow and over the continuaution of the Misbourne Valley to the hillside opposite. The path now followed the left-hand hedge of the meadow for several hundred yards as it gently descended into the valley. About 100 yards before the end of the meadow, the path went over a stile on the left and crossed an artificial horse gallop.

I am fairly sure I recognised this spot on an episode of Midsomer Murders recently – ITV have just been repeating numerous episodes in the afternoons, and I’ve recorded and watched most of them (well, there’s been nothing else worth watching on the box!). It’s not the best of Detetctive series, but it’s interesting to me as much of it is filmed in the Chilterns, so I enjoyed trying to recognise the locations used. Bledlow has appeared in several episodes, as has The Lee and Chenies Manor (which I went past on Walk 8).

I went through a gate on the opposite side of the gallop, and turned right and followed the fence beside the gallop – there were about four black cattle some way away in the buttercup-filled meadow I was walking through. After a few hundred yards, I went through another gate and re-crossed the artificial gallop to a stile. It was then just a short stroll to the right to return to the car park, and I got back to my car about 2.15pm.

This was another very enjoyable walk, on a very fine day indeed. A really good mixture of field paths and woods, alternating in quick succession. The variety of colourful wildflowers at this time of year added to the pleasure I got from the walk, and the yellow meadows and pastures considerably enhanced the attractions of the scenery.

Total distance: 133.4 miles

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 10

Tuesday, May 20th, 2008

Below is a draft copy of my journal entry for Walk 10 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did yesterday.

Walk 10 19/05/08 – Old Amersham and Little Kingshill (11.8 miles approximately)
Parked in Pay-and-Display car park in centre of Old Amersham.

As I started walking at about 9.50am, it was cool and cloudy – not overcast but more clouds than blue sky, the way it would remain for most of the day. I turned right out of the car park into the attractive High Street with its numerous old and characterful houses, with the market hall ahead of me. Before reaching it, I turned left into Whielden Street, which also contained attractive old houses. I soon turned left again into Whielden Green, a cul-de-sac mainly of modern bungalows. Near its end, I turned right on to a footpath into an L-shaped meadow, extending in front of me and then going to the left. I followed the left-most of two paths through the grass here, which led slightly uphill to path junction in a hedgerow, where I turned right, between the hedge and some garden fence on my left. At the end of the hedge I emerged back into the meadow, where I went left for a few yards and then joined a surfaced path between the meadow and some houses on my left. I soon came to a path junction, where I turned right to reach a bridge over the Amersham bypass. If I’d taken the rightmost path when I first entered the meadow it would have brought me straight here, but I chose to stick to the official right-of-way shown on the map – if the meadow was an Open Access area, it might have been different.

Across the footbridge, I spotted some Dovefoot Cranesbill. I soon turned right, along the edge of a huge corn field, initially with gardens to my left. Where they ended, the path continued beside a wide ditch on my left, very gradually going uphill. The path was familiar to me, as it is part of the Chiltern Heritage Trail which I would be following for much of today’s walk. After a third of a mile or so, I turned right on a path that led to the start of a small embankment running through the corn field. The path continued to the right along the top of the embankment (though the map shows the right-of-way going along the bottom). After a few hundred yards I reached the end of the embankment, and at last came to the end of the huge cornfield and the top of the hill. I went through a gap in the hedgerow ahead of me, and continued into a large meadow. On reaching a massive pylon, where there were nice views ahead, I turned left through the hedge, and followed a fence on my left through a small meadow or paddock, where I met a man using a metal detector. The path continued on and down a farm drive to reach a road on the edge of Coleshill.

The Civil War poet Edmund Waller lived in the manor house at Coleshill. His family had lived there since the early 1500’s. He used to write his poetry under an oak tree, which is thought to date back to the Norman Conquest. There is a house called Waller’s Oak, and another house, Stock Place, incorporates a wing of the old manor house (Stock was the name of the village in the middle ages). The parish church has a modern Lych Gate, made of English Oak on a brick base, with a tiled roof.

I turned right and followed the road for about half a mile through the village. Opposite the Red Lion pub, I turned right beside the church – the Lych Gate here is one of the Millennium art works created along the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail. I was now also joining the route of the Chiltern Way, so the next section as far as Winchmore Hill was very familiar to me. At the end of the alley beside the church, I crossed a road and continued down a gravel drive between houses. The path continued beside a small field on my right and reached a fork, where I went left on a path between a hedge and a fence on my right beside another small field. The path then went over a stile into a large meadow, with nice views across the woods and rolling hills to my right. I followed the path half-left, passing a clump of trees on my right – I saw a buzzard ahead of me over a wood, but it was soon chased off by a crow. I passed through a narrow section of the wood on a wide and rutted track, and continued on beside a hedge on my left. I could see ahead to some cottages in Winchmore Hill and across the fields to my right I could see the spire of the church at Penn Street rising above some woods. The path eventually became a track between hedges, where I saw Yellow Archangel, Herb Robert and Bluebells, and emerged in Winchmore Hill opposite a Methodist Chapel.

Winchmore Hill is a hamlet in the parish of Penn. It is often confused with another Winchmore Hill, not too far away in North London.

I turned left along the road, and soon came to a junction where I turned right, with the large village green on my left. When another part of the green started on the right of the road, I followed its right edge down to another road (I passed a gentleman with a fork other his shoulder, obviously on his way to the allotments on the other side of the road). I’d now departed from the Chiltern Way but was still on the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail. The path continued between hedges, with the allotments to my left and further on a corn field to my right. It then crossed a grassy field and continued through a wood. I saw some Wood Speedwell here, as the path continued close to the left edge of the wood. Further on, and area of the wood had been felled and replanted, the young trees still surrounded by plastic tubes to protect them from nibbling deer. Beyond the wood, the path went slightly to the right, across another large corn field (this had been rough grass when I did the Chiltern Heritage Trail, and the previous field had then been a cattle pasture). The path then passed through some bushes, where I saw some Cuckooflowers, and along a broad drive between houses to reach a road in Penn Street.

Penn Street is situated on part of the former Wycombe Heath, and probably dates back to the thirteenth century when the Penn family established a manor house here, having moved from Penbury. The oldest house dates to the fifteenth century, while several others go back to the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, with most of the village lying within a Conservation Area. The church is relatively recent, having been built in 1849.

I had a look at the pond on the opposite side of the road, on the large green here. When I was here before, I thought the pond looked newly dug, but an information board said it was an old one. I turned left along the green, where there were more Cuckooflowers amongst the Buttercups. I passed the village War Memorial and continued along the edge of the green towards the village cricket pitch. At a road junction I turned right, and soon came to an entrance into Penn Wood.

Penn Wood is one of the largest areas of ancient woodland in the Chilterns AONB (Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty). From before the Norman Conquest until the middle of the nineteenth century it was a wood pasture common. In the 1850’s it was enclosed and converted to ‘high forest’. It became an SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest) in 1950, but in subsequent decades almost half the wood was felled and it lost this status in 1979. More felling took place in the 1990’s in preparation for a proposed golf course, but this was vigorously and successfully opposed by a group of locals. The wood is now managed by the Woodland Trust (this external link opens in a new window).

I took the leftmost of two paths starting here, and followed it for about half a mile through the wood. I recognised beech, oak and silver birch trees as I went along – the path was broad and straight, but I had to weave in and out to avoid muddy patches. On the far side of the wood, I crossed a main road and went down the minor road opposite. I soon came to a junction where I forked right into Beamond End Lane. After 50-100 yards I went right again along a private drive, and continued on a path between fences and hedges at its end. This took me to a gate and a grassy field, part of which to my left had been ploughed up. On the far side I went through another metal gate into Toby’s Lane, a hedge-lined track. I followed it to the left – it was very muddy in places, in fact it had been almost impassable when I last walked here a few months ago. After a few hundred yards I turned off it, turning left onto a footpath – here I finally left the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail which I’d followed since Amersham.

The path ran between a hedge and the high wooden wall of a farmyard on my right, and soon ended at a lane (Beamond End Lane again). I crossed over and continued on a footpath opposite through another grassy field. Where the hedge on my right turned right, the path continued downhill through the grass to a metal kissing-gate on the edge of a wood. I followed the clear path through the wood, descending slightly further then rising again briefly. I spotted Bluebells, Greater Stitchwort and Herb Robert beside the path here. The path then continued between hedges, with paddocks either side – I saw a very young foal with two horses in one of them on my left. Further on the path had a amature hedge on the left, with the branches of trees overshadowing the path, with a yellow-spattered meadow beyond the fence on my right. There was some Garlic Mustard and Woodruff growing near the end of the path, which ended by running between garden fences to reach Holmer Green.

Holmer Green was originally a hamlet in the parish of Little Missenden but is now a village in its own right. The ‘Holmer’ part of the name was first recorded in the 13th century as ‘Holeme’, while the ‘Green’ refers to the large and ancient green that was here from the 13th century onwards – it had been reduced to a mere 4 acres by 1854, however. The oldest houses here date to the 16th century, when the hamlet thrived on sheep farming. In the 19th century, the poet Christina Rossetti and her poet/ painter brother Dante Gabriel Rossetti visited their grandfather in Holmer Green – it is said that Christina drew poetic inspiration from the surrounding countryside. From about 1850 to 1950 the village was famed locally for its cherry orchards. The entire nature of the village was changed by a wave of building here in the 1960’s and 1970’s, and the population now totals 4000.

I continued on in the same direction along a residential street, and then on a footpath which carried on as the street went right. This very soon came to a path junction, where I turned right and followed the path between garages and a hedge to reach a road. Here I turned left, and followed the road for over half a mile through the large village. I soon passed the Bat and Ball pub on the left, as the name suggests adjacent to the village playing field. Further on I passed the Village Centre (presumably similar to a village hall) and then the Royal British Legion building, both on my right. Eventually I came to a mini-roundabout on the edge of the village, where I turned right.

After a short distance, I turned left on a path along the right edge of another paddock, with a couple of horses in it. In the far corner I went over a couple of stiles in quick succession, with a house close by on the right. I was surprised to see some young calves in the next small enclosure, as I’d thought this was another paddock when I’d been here before. I had to squeeze between the calves and their anxious mothers, who were looking over a gate into the adjacent field on the right. Over another stile, I followed a hedge on my right through another couple of paddocks, descending into a slight valley. I crossed another couple of stiles in quick succession, and then walked round two sides of another grassy field, following hedgerows on my right.

There was then another pleasant walk through a wood, the path descending at first into another slight valley, then turning left with the edge of the wood just feet to my left. On the far side of the wood I came to a T-junction of paths, where I turned right, initially alongside the wood. The path continued between hedges and fences, with meadows and small enclosures (one containing goats) either side, passing the Baptist Chapel in Little Kingshill to reach a road.

Little Kingshill lies in the parish of Little Missenden, though it is larger than its parent village. The ‘King’ in the name is thought to be King John.

I turned right, and had another half mile of road walking through the village – not the most interesting part of the walk, especially as I’d done it before on both the Chiltern Heritage Trail and the South Bucks Way (which I’d now be following most of the rest of the walk, apart from a slight diversion through Little Missenden). But it was soon over, and as the road turned to the left, I continued along a footpath going on ahead. This passed through a small area of trees and continued across another huge corn field, with an impressive view ahead over Little Missenden and the Misbourne valley. It took some time to cross the field, descending slowly on tyre tracks through the green crop. On the far side, I went through a hedge gap and continued through another corn field, still going gently downhill and still admiring the view ahead. The path was soon running alongside the edge of the field on my left. In the next field corner, I stopped to eat my lunch on a stile, as it was now about 1pm. I then carried on, across another stile the other side of a hedge-lined path, and across a large paddock, yellow with wildflowers. In the far corner I went over another stile, to reach a lane on the edge of Little Missenden.

Little Missenden lies in the Misbourne valley, about three miles west of Amersham. The name ‘Missenden’ comes from the Saxon for ‘valley where marsh plants grow’, and the village church dates back to the time of the Saxons. It contains some mediaeval wall paintings, and is well worth a visit. The village is quaint and attractive, and has been used as a setting for films and TV.

I turned right, and walked for about half a mile or so through the charming village. I passed the historic church on my left (which I visited when I walked the Chiltern Heritage Trail, see Day 5 of my journal for that walk), and went by several attractive houses and cottages. I was quite happy to do this bit of road walking, as Little Missenden is one of my favourite villages. I passed a wooden fingerpost on the right, and then the first of two pubs. Just after the second pub, the Crown, I took a path on the right, initially along a gravel track. There were meadows to my left, and I could occasionally glimpse the small river Misbourne running through them. There were Canada Geese, Mallards and Moorhens in one of the meadows.

Where the gravel track turned left, the footpath carried on along the valley, now on a stony track beside the right-hand hedge of a long narrow valley. A man taking photographs here came over and asked, in a foreign accent, what was beyond the trees he could see ahead of him – he seemed disappointed when I told him it was the village of Little Missenden. The track carried on beyond a gate, now in what was obviously parkland, with some mature trees dotted about the grass. I noticed a large amount of the dark blue Germander Speedwell growing here. The sun came out very briefly around this time, and for a few minutes I walked in bright sunshine for the only time today. The stony track eventually turned left to go uphill, but I continued ahead on a path through the grass. The path continued along the valley, edging closer to the river on my right. Soon the river opened out into a small lake where it had been dammed – obviously for the benefit of the owners of Shardeloes, the grand white house on top of the hillside to my right. There were Tufted Duck and Coots on the lake.

A bit further on, the path left the parkland and reached an impressive cricket ground, with two pitches and several nets set up. I went round the right edge of one pitch, then behind the clubhouse and along the drive (there were no signs or waymarks, I think the actual right-of-way may be straight across the second pitch). I went through a gateway and along a short section of drive, then took a surfaced path that went between bushes and followed the river under a road bridge. The path then went right, and followed the main road for about a hundred yards before veering left through some bushes to reach the old road into Amersham. A short distance on, the road became the start of the High Street in Old Amersham. Again, it was a pleasure to walk down this long street, with several old coaching inns and numerous Georgian and older houses either side. Unfortunately, the effect of this grand street was as usual marred by the large number of cars parked either side and even down the middle. I took one or two photographs, and passed the Market Hall as I made my way back to the car park where I’d started.

This was an unusual walk for me in one respect – it started and finished in the town of Old Amersham and passed through no less than six villages, so there was a lot of walking along streets, interspersed with short stretches of no more than two miles through countryside. But it was still an enjoyable walk, only the lengthy stretches through Holmer Green and Little Kingshill being a bit dull. There were some nice views over the Misbourne Valley and over the rolling Chiltern Hills, and some nice stretches through woods to add variety to the numerous field paths. The church at Little Missenden is well worth a visit to those interested in history, and the walk probably saved the best for last, the walk along the section of Misbourne Valley being very pleasant indeed.

Total distance: 120.9 miles

Web site updated !!!

Sunday, May 18th, 2008

I have just updated my web site, “Pete’s Walks”. I’ve added Walks 5-8 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, and some new bird, butterfly and wildflower photos.

This afternoon I walked round the two Nature Reserves at Totternhoe. Saw some Wild Mignonette and Sainfoin for the first time this year, lots of Germander Speedwell and Cowslips. Managed to photo an Orange Tip butterfly.

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 9

Saturday, May 17th, 2008

Below is a draft of my journal entry for Walk 9 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did on Wednesday (14th May). Sorry, I know these entries are even more boring without the accompanying grotty photos, so you may prefer to wait a few days until I add it to the web site (I hope to add 3 or 4 more entries for the walk to the web site in the next few days). Unfortunately, I just don’t have the time to write both a journal entry and then a shorter version for this blog.

Walk 9 14/05/08 – Chalfont St Giles and Old Amersham (11.2 miles approximately)
Parked in Pay-and-Display car park in centre of Chalfont St Giles.

I had a nice surprise at the start of the walk – for some reason, parking in the car park at Chalfont St Giles was free today! I started walking just before 10am. It was a much cooler day than on the last few walks, but still pleasantly warm and very sunny. I walked along the High Street, passing some expensive looking shops, and followed the road as it turned slightly right. I passed the Milton Museum (see note for Chalfont St Giles in previous entry) on my left, and soon after turned left onto a footpath opposite the Milton’s Head pub. The hard-surfaced path went slightly uphill between fences, with a small meadow on the left and further on a school on the right. When the path ended I continued on in the same direction, along the edge of some playing fields, following a hedgeline on my left. Beyond the playing fields I passed a Bowls club on my right, and then the path went up and down a small dip, through a grassy area that looked more like a park than a meadow. I spotted some Wood Avens growing here.

I crossed a gravel track or drive and carried on along a narrow path between fences and hedges. I passed some small paddocks on my right, and further on there was an old orchard on that side. To my left, the fields sloped down to the Misbourne Valley, running south between Chalfont St Giles and Chalfont St Peter. The path carried on for some distance, between a hedge and a hire wire fence on the right, with a large pasture beyond. The path curved round to the right and eventually reached a lane. Here I crossed over, and continued on the path on the other side, which ran through a small area of trees and bushes. I went past one turning to the right and then took the second, the path here running between old overgrown hedgerows.

After a couple of hundred yards or so this path ended a t a junction, where I turned left on a path parallel to a farm drive on my right. There was initially a wood on my left, and then a very long but quite narrow pasture from which the path was separated by a wire fence. A few feet beyond the fence was a long line of oak trees – a cow and a calf, the sole inhabitants of the pasture, lay in the shade of one of the trees. Beyond a farmyard, there were empty pastures to the right of the fenced path. At the end of the long pasture on my left, I turned left on another fenced path along the end of the pasture, and then continued through a short sequence of paddocks, alongside a hedge on my right and with a row of giant pylons just to my left. The overhead wires hummed and crackled noisily.

In the third or fourth paddock, the path went half-left and I passed three or four horses as I made my way to the far corner. I crossed the drive to the farm or stables that was to my left. and continued across another paddock in the same direction as before. I’d had a problem here on my exploratory walk in this area – there was a tall and new fence along the far side, but no stile. The problem was now resolved – instead of a stile being installed, the new fence had been removed! Anyway, in the corner of the paddock, I turned sharp right and followed the edge of the paddock to a stile and the drive again. I followed the drive left, passing some Bulbous Buttercups, and at the end turned right along a narrow lane. This was surprisingly busy today (a confused taxi driver passed me three times!) and I had to keep squeezing into the hedges either side to let vehicles pass. I went past the entrance to a Youth Hostel on my right, and at the end of the lane I turned right into the village of Jordans, with the old Quaker Meeting House immediately on my right.

The Quaker Meeting House at Jordans is one of the oldest in the country, dating from 1688, but was badly damaged in a disastrous fire in 2005 and is currently being restored. It was an early centre for Quaker activity, and was visited by Charles Fox and William Penn. Indeed, William Penn and members of his family are buried there. Nearby is the Mayflower Barn, believed to have been built from the timbers of the ship that took the Pilgrim Fathers to America. There is also a Youth Hostel at Jordans.

I’d been disappointed that the Quaker Meeting House was being restored when I first went past here on the Chiltern Heritage Trail about 20 months ago. Sadly it was still being restored today, although at least the plastic sheeting had been removed so I could get a reasonable photo of the building. The fencing surrounding the building work also now included the graves of William Penn and his family, so I was unable to go and look at them this time. Also since that time, the Quakers have sold off some land and property, so I could no longer walk from the graveyard to the Mayflower Barn, but could just photograph it as I went past along the road.

I followed the road through the edge of the village for about half a mile – there were a couple of rather dangerous bends but elsewhere there was generally a path or verge on the right. I spotted more Wood Avens, some Herb Robert and some Green Alkanet beside the road. At the end of the village I turned down a cement farm drive on the left. Where this turned left, I went over a stile in front of me and turned right through a large meadow, full of yellow Dandelions and Buttercups. Beyond the meadow the path ran between wooden fences, with some paddocks on the right, and then followed the drive from a stables to a minor road. Here I went left – the road soon turned left, with a lane going straight on. Here I turned right onto a footpath.

The path went for a few yards down a drive, then ran between hedgerows. This went on for a considerable distance, the path often bordered by the white of Cow Parsley and Greater Stitchwort. One or two paths went off either side, and there were occasional gaps or gateways giving access to the adjacent fields, but I stayed on the path between the mature hedgerows. When these eventually ended, the path continued diagonally across another attractive yellow meadow to the far corner, where it entered Hodgemoor Wood. I followed the path running along just inside the right edge of the wood. There were several minor junctions, where small paths not shown on the map diverged, but I stayed close to the edge of the wood without ever actually leaving it. I then joined a surfaced track used by horse riders, which soon took me to the end of the wood and a lane.

I crossed over and continued across part of a corn field – I spotted some beautiful field pansies here, the first I’ve seen this year. I crossed the route of the Chiltern Way on the edge of the field, and continued on in the same direction along a farm track. I soon passed the farmhouse, where I saw an Orange-tip butterfly. The track now descended gently for some distance with a path on its right, which I followed. The path rejoined the track as it turned left – I met four ladies, all in red baseball caps, walking the other way here. The track went downhill beside paddocks on the right to Bottom House Farm and the lane that takes its name from that farm. I turned right for a few yards along the lane, with the farm buildings on either side of me, then turned right at a footpath sign (where I saw my first Red Admiral butterfly of the year).

Across the farmyard the path continued along a track, initially with a line of mature trees on the left, rising steadily uphill through large corn fields. There was a view towards the Misbourne Valley to my right. Towards the top of the hill the footpath turned left, leaving the track, and crossed the field to a hedge. I then had to go a few yards left along the hedge to a stile. The path then continued across another large corn field, the crop nowhere near as far developed as in the previous ones. Again there were views over the valley to my right, and I recognised the golf course I’d walked round on my last walk. The path crossed a corner of another field, then went slightly left, alongside Day’s Wood on the right. Where the wood ended, it continued a short distance beside a hedge, and went over a rather dilapidated stile in the field corner. It now followed a hedge on the left, with another enormous corn field sloping down to the valley on my right. I’d be returning along the bottom of the valley later on.

When the hedge turned left, quite close to a farm, the path continued across the corn field and then across another one, heading towards Rodger’s Wood with a view of Amersham ahead and across the valley. Looking across the Misbourne Valley to my right, I could see some of the yellow paddocks and meadows I’d been through on my previous walk. I passed through a corner of the wood, then the path started descending at an angle down into the valley, passing through two more corn fields. This path must be a popular route, as since leaving Bottom House Farm I’d met a total of six walkers coming the other way (and that’s on top of the four red-capped ladies I’d met just before the farm). On reaching a large empty pasture in the valley bottom, I turned left on a track. This went under a bridge carrying a main road, and soon led between houses (some posh barn conversions) to a main road in Old Amersham.

The market town of Amersham is split into two distinct parts, the larger and more modern Amersham on the hill and Old Amersham (which this walk passes through). The High Street in Old Amersham has been described as the finest in England, and it is certainly a very attractive street of mainly Georgian buildings – it has often been seen on TV and in films. At the time of the Norman Conquest, the manor of Amersham was held by Queen Edith, widow of Edward the Confessor, and later it was held by the Earls of Bedford. In 1521 seven Lollard dissenters were burnt at the stake in Amersham – a memorial was raised to them in 1931, with an inscription saying that “They died for the principles of religious liberty, for the right to read and interpret the Holy Scriptures and to worship God according to their consciences as revealed through God’s Holy Word”.

I carefully crossed the busy road and turned left, passing the entrance to a supermarket car park. I continued on down the very attractive High Street, with the market hall ahead of me. I then turned right into the churchyard, passing to the right of the church. My route now went over a small bridge over the river Misbourne, but before crossing it I went and sat on a bench in a grassy area by the river to eat my lunch, as it was almost 1pm. I then went over the bridge and turned right alongside the river – the water was very clear and I could see some small fish in it (I later had them identified as Roach – what would I do without ‘Wild About Britain’!). There was the wall of a cemetery to my left. Where it ended a path forked left, towards the Martyrs’ Memorial (see note above), but as I’d been there on one of my exploratory trips already, I didn’t bother to make the quarter-mile each way diversion today – also, the sky was turning a watery shade of grey and I was concerned about getting wet during the rest of the walk. So I carried on alongside the river, with another huge corn field sloping up the hillside on my left.

The path reached a main road (a main route between the two parts of Amersham) where I turned right, soon turning left at the roundabout at the end of the road. After a couple of hundred yards or so, I took a footpath on the right (just past a car showroom, the last building on this side of Old Amersham). This followed a hedge along the right of a meadow, then went through a gap in the hedge and continued through some scrubland between the hedge and the river on my right. It went under another road bridge, and soon entered the corner of another corn field, where I continued to have the river close by on my right. I started to feel the odd spot of rain here. At the end of the field the path ended at a junction, where I turned right, crossing a footbridge over the river and carrying on across another corn field. On the far side, I turned left, joining the route of the South Bucks Way which I would follow along the valley all the way back to Chalfont St Giles.

The path ran along the valley on a headland between corn fields – the huge one on my right sloped up the hillside and out of sight, I’d walked along its far edge earlier. Where the smaller corn field on my left ended, I saw a clump of Red Campion. I carried on, now with a tall hedge on my left, and more corn fields to my right. The odd spot of rain now turned to drizzle, and I put my camera away in the rucksack for a while. Eventually I reached a stile in a crossing hedgerow, and continued through a paddock (I met one of the walkers I’d seen earlier again here) to another stile and a lane (Bottom House Farm Lane again). The path continued along the valley bottom, through another paddock and then through a larger meadow. On the far side of this I went over a stile into a thin belt of trees – almost immediately I was retracing part of my previous walk, which turned to what was now my left here to shortly reach the golf course I’d sen from across the valley earlier.

The path went through the tree belt, with a pasture and then a donkey paddock on the left. It emerged from the trees to run between a hedge and an empty cattle pasture on the right. It then ran along a short section of lane between two bends, and then continued past a few houses on the right (I passed a lady walker here, who’d been visible ahead of me since just before crossing the lane). There was a view here forward across the large buttercup-filed cattle pasture on the left towards the edge of Chalfont St Giles where I had parked. The path entered another trree belt and a short distance further on joined a private drive between some large residences, which soon led to the centre of the village. I walked a short distance to the left to return to the car park. I spotted the ladies in red caps I’d seen earlier – I wonder if the surprising number of walkers I met today was anything to do with the free parking?

Another good walk – shame the Quaker Meeting House was still closed, I’d love to visit it sometime. The first part of the walk as far as Jordans was OK but nothing special, and the lane and road walking to and through Jordans wasn’t great (perhaps I should have thought of a different route here, but I was keen to pass the Quaker Meeting House). But the rest of the route was very pleasant indeed – and I didn’t notice so much road noise along the Misbourne Valley today as when I first walked there 2-3 years ago. The slight drizzle in the afternoon hardly affected me at all – I was lucky, as driving home it was evident there’d been heavy showers or rain just a few miles to the north of Amersham.

Total distance: 109.1 miles

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 8

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008

This is a draft of my journal entry for Walk 8 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did yesterday (Monday 12th).

Walk 8 12/05/08 – Chenies and Chalfont St Giles (11.9 miles approximately)
Parked at Chenies.

I started walking about 9.55am, having parked near the old water pump on the village green in Chenies. It was another gorgeous spring morning, with hardly a cloud in the sky and the temperature already around 17C. I took the lane going south, immediately passing the school on my right. The route was familiar to me – I would be following parts of the Chiltern Way and/or Chiltern Heritage Way for several miles, to beyond Chalfont St Giles. After a quarter of a mile or so the lane ended at a junction with the A404 – I spotted some Star-of-Bethlehem just before the junction, only the second time I’ve seen this attractive white flower..

Chenies (originally Isenhampstead Chenies) derives its name from Thomas Cheyne, shield-bearer to Edward III, who was given the manor in 1326. There was once a royal palace here, that both Edward I and Edward III used. There were once several paper-mills in the village, powered by the river Chess.

On the other side of the main road I continued along a lengthy bridleway running between hedges. I looked out for and soon spotted some Herb Robert growing here – I’d remembered that the earliest sighting I’d had of it last year was here when I walked the Chiltern Way. I heard a Lapwing a couple of times somewhere beyond the hedge on my left, but didn’t see it. The bridleway passed a small wood on the left, and a little further on passed under a brick railway bridge. It continued through a wood, initially mainly of beech. There was a surprisingly muddy section where it went down into a slight depression, before it rose again through an area of younger trees. The path then joined a good track, with a paddock on the left and part of the wood on the right. There was some Red Campion growing here. When the wood ended it carried on between the wooden fences of paddocks either side (a lengthy section of the right-hand fence was completely broken down, making one of the paddocks unusable). Across the paddocks on my left, I could see the houses of Chorleywood West – this is Betjamin’s ‘Metro-land’, a curoious mix of suburbia and countryside.

In 2004 a government survey of 32,482 neighbourhoods concluded that Chorleywood West had the highest quality of life in England, based on thirty seven criteria (the other top nine locations were also in the London Commuter belt, so as far as I’m concerned it’s yet more proof that there are ‘Lies, damn lies, and statistics!’). There was a Roman village at Chorleywood, with a villa thought to lie under the M25 here. In Saxon times it grew into a major town, with the border of Wessex and Mercia running through it. The town is famous for its Quaker conections – non-conformists flocked to the town, promised sanctuary by the towns inhabitants. William Penn settled the Pennsylvania colony with people from Chorleywood, Ricksmansworth and the surrounding part of Buckinghamshire, though this had disastrous financial results for the town. It boomed again in the 19th Century through the paper and printing industries. The coming of the Metropolitan Line in the 1890’s led to an incredible population rise, which continued until the 1960’s. Sir John Betjamin described Chorleywood as “essential Metro-land”.

At the end of the track I turned left on a private road, with houses to my left and large paddocks to my right – I should mention that all the paddocks were bright yellow with buttercups and dandelions. At a crossroads I continued along Chalfont Lane ahead of me, with more plush residences either side. At the end, I turned right into Shire Lane – this soon turned sharply right, but I continued ahead along Old Shire Lane, as the name implies, once the county boundary between Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire. There were more houses on the left, and the paddocks to my right, with woods and fields beyond. A woman coming the other way saw my camera and guessed I was out to photograph Bluebells, but I explaine I was interested in all wildflowers.

Further on, the lane became a track as it left the house behind – it was now a good track, running for quite a distance beside Philipshill Wood, managed by the excellent Woodland Trust. After a while it started to descend gently. At the bottom of the hill, the track turned left, but I took a path going right, following a fence of wooden palings through part of the wood. I saw Yellow Archangel, Bluebells, Yellow Pimpernel and some more Red Campion amongst the flowers here. The fence and path curved slowly to the left through the wood, rising very gently to eventually reach a stile. The path continued alongside the right edge of a huge meadow, with part of the Chiltern Open Air Museum visible to my left (the museum is a collection of relocated old buildings representing the history of life in the Chilterns). I spotted some Cuckooflower growing beside the path here. I eventually went over another stile to reach a drive leading to both the museum and the Chalfont Campus of Buckinghamshire Chilterns University College. The latter is partly housed in Newland Park, originally built in the 1770’s and later owned by Abraham Newland, Chief Cashier of the Bank of England, whose signature was on five pound notes. I turned right for a few yards along the drive to reach a minor road.

Across the road the familiar path led along a thin belt of trees, once a continuation of the drive from Newland Park. Across a lane, the path passed between a garden hedge on the left and the fence of another small paddock. T a junction beyond the hedge the Chiltern Way went left, but I continued ahead, following the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail, on a path that was initially between hedges on either side, further on there was a large meadow to the left behind a large fence, with warning signs about guard dogs wandering loose. I passed some impressive conifers, and then the path ran between garden fences to reach a residential street on the edge of Chalfont St Giles. The path continued as an alleyway on the other side, running steeply downhill between wooden garden fences. It came to another street, where I continued along a narrow residential road opposite. Where this ended, I continued down another alleyway to emerge near a major road junction with mini-roundabouts. I went over a pedestrian crossing and took the road opposite, leading down into the busy but attractive centre of the village.

Chalfont St Giles is mentioned in the Domesday Book, the name Chalfont meaning ‘chalk spring’ . The parish church dates to the 12th century, and has some fine 13th century wall paintings, a rare example of painted battlements (dating from the 15th century), and also 17th century inscriptions of the Ten Commandments, the Creed and the Lord’s Prayer. The poet John Milton fled to Chalfont St Giles in 1665 to escape the Great Plague of London, and it was here that he completed ‘Paradise Lost’. It was also here that a local friend persuaded him to write its sequel, ‘Paradise Regained’. Milton’s Cottage still exists and is open to the public. ‘Chalfonts’ is the cockney rhyming slang for piles.

I passed the pond on my left, and noticed signs announcing that today was the first day of a six-day literary festival here. Beyond the village green I took the familiar path on the right (part of the South Bucks Way as well as the Chiltern Way), initially along a private drive with some large residences either side. The drive turned left after about quarter of a mile, but I continued ahead on the path along the Misbourne Valley. This ran through a thin belt of trees, then along the drive of a row of houses (I spotted a black rabbit here!). It continued on a short section of lane, then between the fence of a meadow on my left and a large hedge on the right. I saw a Speckled Wood butterfly here, but could only get a photo of it with its wings closed together. The path along the valley then ran through another belt of trees, where I spotted some Wood Avens. The Chiltern Way soon turned left, but I carried on almost to the end of the tree belt before turning right.

The path here was slightly overgrown with nettles, running alongside the wire fence of a flat cattle pasture on my right. I crossed the river Misbourne on a narrow and rather precarious wooden footbridge, with a hand-rail on only one side. The river was flowing quite nicely, though more a stream than a river – when I’d been here before there’d be none or very little water in evidence at all. The path then followed the left edge of another meadow, again spattered with bright yellow flowers. I re-crossed the A413, the main road through the Misbourne valley, and took the path opposite through a golf course. I crossed a couple of fairways, with a green and a tee on my right, then followed the edge of a small wood on my right, before crossing another couple of fairways.

I passed the second of two small white posts marked ‘public footpath’ but then the path virtually petered out in the long grass beside another fairway on my left. I knew from past experience there was a decent path just inside the edge of the wood on my right, but there was no way of getting to it through the scrubby bushes between the long grass and the wood. I followed the rough grass ahead, going uphill beside the bushes – there were footprints through the long grass, but whether those of another walker or of a golfer hunting for his ball, I don’t know. I reached the green at the end of the fairway, and here managed to get through the trees and join the clear path running inside the edge of the wood. I followed this ahead for some distance. Twice it emerged back onto the golf course, only to immediately go back into the trees. Just after the second time it did this, I turned left at a path junction and crossed part of the golf course between some greens to reach the start of an alley between garden fences that led to a minor road.

I turned right, passing a few houses, and then went half-left on a narrow lane or private drive between more houses. At its end I continued on a path, following a hedge on my right beside a huge corn field. The path curved slightly left, with views over the field to a valley. At the end of the path a man and a woman were sitting by the edge of the field, the latter sketching – I said ‘Good Morning’ politely as I went by, but the man just stared at me blankly. Very odd. The path now crossed over the end of a line, and then ran between a wooden garden fence and a thick hedge. It then went through three meadows or paddocks, following a hedge on the right through the first two, then one on the left in the third. There were horses in the first and third of these fields, and as with most other meadows or paddocks today, they were bright yellow with Dandelions and Buttercups. I then came to another larger field – I crossed it diagonally to a far corner, close to where seven horses grazed, then turned sharp right to follow the hedge back to another corner of the same field. The path continued through yet another yellow paddock or meadow, then went through some allotments and followed a short drive to reach a main road between Amersham (immediately to my left) and Little Chalfont.

I turned right along the road for a couple of hundred yards or so, then took a path on the left. This ran along the edge of a small field, with the buildings of Little Chalfont to my right and then went over a footbridge across a railway line (there was metal caging across the top of the bridge, presumably to prevent people throwing objects onto the track). The path then followed a hedgerow beside two large arable fields, with an attractive barn conversion over to my left. Beyond the second field, the path ran between hedges on either side and ended at a track carrying a bridleway, where I went right and soon entered Lane Wood.

The bridleway immediately forked right at a junction, and ran along just inside the right edge of the wood, which sloped down on my left into the Chess Valley. The path was dry and well-surfaced, and this was a very attractive stretch of the walk. I saw Herb Robert, Yellow Archangel, Wood Speedwell and Garlic Mustard beside the woodland path, and further on came across the largest clump of Woodruff I’ve yet seen. After quite some distance the bridleway went down a slight dip and up the other side, then emerged from the wood to follow a drive a few yards to a lane.

Immediately across the lane, I left the bridleway by forking left on a path descending through the trees of another wood. There was more Wood Speedwell, some Bugle and a large amount of Yellow Pimpernel here. I forked left onto a narrower path, that ran close to the bottom edge of the wood. I kept left at a couple of path junctions to reach a metal kissing-gate, which gave access to a meadow that had some impressive horse chestnuts trees. I crossed the meadow, admiring the view to my right along the Chess valley, to reach the minor road that runs through the valley. On the other side I crossed a small paddock, and then followed a drive across the river chess – there was an impressive weir on my left, surmounted by a small statue. On top of the hill in front of me was the grand Latimer House.

The current building called Latimer House dates only from 1838 after a disastrous fire gutted the previous building. That had been acquired by Sir William Cavendish in 1615, and had remained in his family for almost 350 years. In the late 18th century, houses were removed from the valley and a lake created in order to improve the view from the house. From 1847-1971 the house was home to the military Joint Service Defence College, and it is now a conference centre.

I turned right through a kissing-gate, and followed a path that initially ran parallel to the river on my right. It then curved slightly left, as the river turned the oter way, crosing another pleasant yellow-bespattered meadow to reach a lane on the edge of Latimer. On the other side, I started to retrace part of my previous walk, the path going through a large cattle pasture (empty, today the black cattle were on the other side of the river). It then followed a left-hand fence through a small field of rough grass, beyond which it came to a junction with another path and a bridleway. Here I sat on a stile to eat a very late lunch. It was 2.05pm, and I’d already resorted to eating a second Alpine bar to keep the hunger pangs at bay, there just hadn’t been anywhere else to stop. This was the same stile where I’d had lunch on my previous walk!

I joined the bridleway which continued along the valley between hedges – the river came very close at one point (I’d seen a Little Egret here on my previous visit). I saw some more Wood Avens growing here, and some Wintercress, something I’d not seen before and which I had to get identified on the ‘Wild About Britain’ site. The bridleway then went through Mill Farm to a lane, where I turned left, almost imediately stopping to take some photographs as I went over a bridge over the river – I always take shots here of the attractive views along the valley. The lane soon ended at the minor road through the valley. On the other side I followed a steep path uphill through a wood, then continued with tall brick walls either side to reach Chenies Manor. I turned left down the drive, with the impressive church on my left) to return to the green and my parked car.

Chenies Manor was built around 1460 by Sir John Cheyne, and in 1494 was inherited by the Earl of Bedford. It was restyled in 1560 by Francis Russell, 2nd Earl of Bedford. Both Henry VIII and Elizabeth I stayed here. It remained in the Russell family until 1954, and there is a Bedford chapel in the adjacent church of St Michael. The house is open to the public at certain times, and has a mediaeval well,a priest hole and a dungeon. It is noted for its gardens, which include two mazes.

This was another enjoyable walk, on a generally bright and sunny day although the skies had clouded over a bit by about 1.30pm. I was very familiar with the first half of the walk, but was quite happy to do it again. There was a good mixture today of woodland and field walking, and the Chess valley is always very pleasant to walk through. Chenies Manor and Latimer House added some historic interest, and there was the usual wide variety of wildflowers. The meadows and paddocks throughout the route were especially attractive today because of the profusion of yellow Dandelions and Buttercups.

Total distance: 97.9 miles

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 6

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008

Sorry for getting them out of order! This is Walk 6, which I did last Thursday.

Walk 6 8/05/08 – Buckland Common and Chartridge (12.3 miles approximately)
Parked at Buckland Common, at the small parking area by the telephone box.

Note: This route is the same as the ‘Buckland Common, Cholesbury, Chartridge’ walk in the ‘Chiltern Hills’ section of my web site.

This was another glorious Spring day, with clear blue skies and the temperature forecast to reach 24C – it was already 16C as I left home. Fortunately there was a strong breeze to take the edge off the temperature, and parts of the walk were well-shaded, so I was rarely uncomfortably hot.

I set off from Buckland Common about 9.40am, initially following the route of the Chiltern Way (my penultimate walk on that Long Distance path started here). I followed a lane past a small green on my right, continuing past a house that I believe was once a pub. As the lane turned right, I took a footpath continuing ahead, crossing a small ploughed field and then going across a drive (going to a blue-painted farmhouse to my left). Over a stile, I continued alongside a hedge on my right, through a small paddock with a solitary horse. Across another stile, I turned right alongside the hedgerow. The field here was a large empty pasture dotted with dandelions and buttercups, with a wood on the far side. I went over a stile in the field corner, the path continuing between a hedge on my right and a wooden fence on my left, with paddocks beyond. There are usually a number of Alpaca in these paddocks, but as on the last time I walked here, there seemed to be just one Alpaca in each paddock. There was no sign of the large pig that blocked the path when I walked the Chiltern Way here last Spring!

The path dipped down and up again beside the paddocks to reach Drayton Wood. I followed the waymarks for the Chiltern Way, turning left at one junction and then right at a second one. There was a good display of Bluebells in the wood (as there wood be in most of the woods I’d pass through today) and also some Greater Stitchwort. The path next passed between the fences of some small paddocks, and crossed Shire Lane (thus changing county from Buckinghamshire to Hertfordshire). I went half-left through a small wood containing many holly bushes, and continued across a field of oil-seed rape to reach the end of a thin tree belt. As I turned right onto a path running through the trees, following a section of Grim’s Ditch, I was repeating part of my previous walk. But at the end of the tree belt I turned right onto a hedge-lined track, leaving the routes of both Walk 5 and the Chiltern Way.

I followed the track southeast for about quarter of a mile, towards a gate which marked the entrance to a wood. As I neared the gate, I saw a male Muntjac Deer in the corner of the field on my right. I managed to get a photo as it crossed the track in front of me, but it was in too dark a shadow for the photo to be any good. The track continued with Shrubb’s Wood on my left, and a field beyond the trees on my right. I managed to photograph a Speckled Wood butterfly here. As well as many of the usual wildflowers, I came across two here that were new to me, I think – Yellow Pimpernel and Wood Speedwell. They were both tiny flowers next to the path, and I knelt on my plastic map cover to get close-up photos of them. I also came across some Wavy Bittercress, something that I’d only spotted once before (as usual, I’m indebted to the people at ‘Wild About Britain’ for their help in identifying these plants). Further on the field a few yards to my right ended, and I moved into High Scrubs Wood, which was on both sides of the path. I met a lady coming the other way with an enormous dog, an English Mastiff I think – she held it by its collar as I went by, but it was clearly friendly as it was wagging its tail.

Further on, there was a large grassy field just to my right. At a path junction I turned right, leaving the wood, and followed a hedge on my left across the field. There were several jumps for horses in this field and the one on the other side of the hedge – there were even jumps IN the hedge, so it could be rather dangerous following this path when there are show jumpers practising here. On the other side of the field I re-crossed Shire Lane to return to Buckinghamshire, and took a path almost opposite. This ran initially between stables on my left and a garden fence, before running along the edge of wood with paddocks on my left. Where the paddocks ended, I went over a stile and crossed the paddocks beside a hedge on the right. I then went through another small section of beech wood and then an area of scrubby bushes to reach Cholesbury Camp.

Cholesbury Camp is an Iron Age hill fort, one of the best preserved in the Chilterns. A large ditch between two high banks runs almost the complete circuit of the oval enclosure, with a second ditch and further banks visible in the west and south-east. The ramparts are now crowned by a belt of beech trees, except in the southernmost section where the houses and gardens of Cholesbury have encroached. The camp is thought to have been in use from between about 300BC to 50 AD, but excavations have shown that it was only ever sparsely populated, and perhaps only used in times of danger. St Laurence’s church was built within the enclosure in the 13th century, but was much modified in the 1870’s.

I turned left and walked along the bottom of the ditch surrounding the hill fort, between two large embankments with several beech trees. The ditch curved round to the right, and after a while I reached a crossing path, where I started to follow a path along the right-hand embankment. I then went over two stiles in quick succession, and crossed a small paddock within the Camp. Over another stile, I went a few yards into a larger paddock, before going through a gate into St Laurence’s churchyard. There were two or three people here who were clearly doing a detailed study of the architecture of the church, looking at the stone window frames and referring to a plan of the church (although originally built in the 13th and 14th centuries, the church was almost totally rebuilt in the 1870’s).

When I first walked past Cholesbury Church a few months ago as I was exploring possible routes for the Chiltern Chain Walk, I got talking to the church warden here, who very kindly told me some of the village history and showed me an interesting grave in the churchyard. David Newton had served as a Royal Marine on HMS Revenge at the Battle of Trafalgar and lived to the ripe old age of 99, but he was in great poverty towards the end of his life until the vicar approached the Admiralty on his behalf and he was awarded a pension. There was a lot of poverty here in the 1800’s, and Cholesbury became the first parish in the country to go bankrupt, because it could not afford to support the poor of the parish.

The path went to the right of the church. I then turned right, to continue along the ditch and embankments surrounding the hill fort. Here in its south-western corner there was still some evidence of a second ditch and further bank surrounding the fort. On returning to the point where I had first reached the fort, I took the path across the Camp. On the far side I passed the village school on my left as I reached the road through the village. I went a few yards to the right, then took a path on the other side of the road. This passed between garden fences (there was some Lords-and-Ladies or Cuckoo-pint here), then followed a hedgeline down into a pleasant green valley of meadows and sheep pastures, with a wood visible away to my right. At the bottom of the slope, I turned left, and followed a wooden fence along the valley bottom, through a succession of sheep pastures, with the top of Cholesbury Windmill visible in the trees ahead and to my left.

Cholesbury Windmill, originally built as a smock mill in 1863 but rebuilt as a tower mill twenty years later, is a private residence with an interesting history. It was associated with the Bloomsbury Group around the time of the First World War and a number of well-known artists of the period frequented it. According to Wikipedia, “Gilbert Cannan who rented the mill for a time and whose wife Mary was previously married to J.M Barrie, the author of Peter Pan, invited his friends including D.H.Lawrence, Katherine Mansfield and John Middleton Murry to stay there. The artist Mark Gertler, also lived there for a time and painted a famous picture of the mill now on show in the Ashmolean Museum in Oxford with Cannan and his dogs in the foreground. One of the dogs is understood to have been the model for the original illustrations of Nana the dog in the first edition of Peter Pan.”

The path passed a shed containing a few bullocks and then reached a road. I went down a drive opposite, where I got a not very good photo of an Orange-Tip butterfly that was fluttering amongst the Garlic Mustard here. The path continued past a house on the left and its large garden or smallholding, and soon after entered a wooded area as it continued on down the valley. A large branch had broken from a beech tree and almost blocked the path at one point. Further on I left the mature trees behind and passed through a fairly young plantation, where I saw some Yellow Archangel growing. On leaving the plantation, the path continued through the valley beside a broad hedge on the right. I went through three grassy fields that sloped up to my left, and then crossed over Hawridge Lane, a broad track. In the next pasture the path briefly ran to the right of a hedge, before switching back to the left. The hedge was now actually a thin belt of trees between wire fences either side, with Blubells growing in several places. The trees overhung the path, so I was walking in shade for much of the way as I progressed through a further sequence of empty cattle pastures. There were a fair number of Cowslips in one of them. The path finally passed through a large green meadow, before turning right and entering a wood where it immediately ended at a junction with a wide bridleway.

Having followed the valley of White Hawridge Bottom for about a mile and a half, I now turned right and followed the bridleway as it gradually climbed the hillside through the trees of Ramscoat Wood – again there was a lot of Yellow Archangel here. When I’d originally planned the Chiltern Chain Walk, I’d intended to go a little further along the valley, but the bridleway there was impassably muddy so I decided to go this way instead. On a later walk that went a little further down the valley, I’d passed the vehicles of some contractors who were evidently resurfacing the bridleway to make it passable again. They’re work seemed to have continued into the wood, as the section uphill through the wood looked as if it had been recently re-surfaced. On reaching the edge of the wood, the bridleway went right, between a hedge and the wood. It continued alongside the edge of the wood, as it turned to the left and then to the right again. Just before the wood ended, I turned left on a path beside a hedge through a large meadow, dotted once more with yellow buttercups and dandelions. In the field corner the path turned left along the hedgerow – I paused here to drink some water and to don my sunglasses.

It was very pleasant following the hedgerow, with the meadow sloping very slightly down to Ramscoat wood, which was now over to my left. Beyond the meadow the path continued in the same direction, with a stables and then garden fences on the right, and some paddocks and then some small meadows or pastures on the left. It ended at a minor road, where the outskirts of Chesham were a short distance to my left. I crossed over and followed a farm drive. Where this turned left into the farm, I carried on ahead on a path across a small meadow to reach Captain’s Wood, which is a fairly typical Chiltern beech Wood and a nature reserve. I turned right and followed a path through the beech trees and holly bushes. On exiting the wood, I turned left and followed a hederow descending steeply into a valley, with a pleasant view along the valley to my right. The path continued up the equally steep opposite side of the valley, switching to the left of the hedgerow partway up. There were now nice view left, along the valley towards Chesham.

At the top of the hill, I turned right along a minor road for a couple of hundred yard or so – I managed to get a poor quality photo of a Holly Blue butterfly here. I then turned left beyond a solitary house, on a bridleway heading down into another valley. There was a nice view across the corn field here and up the valley to my right. The bridleway soon switched to the left of the hedgerow, and again I could see the outskirts of Chesham along the valley to my left. It was again quite steep going down here (OK, not exactly mountainous, but steep enough to hurt my arthritic knees). In the valley bottom the bridleway continued between hdges (the one on the left having been trimmed very short), and then it climbed the opposite side of the valley, with a caravan park beyond the now mature hedge on the left. It joined the drive to the caravan park for a few yards, before reaching the minor road running through the village of Chartridge.

I turned right, and followed the road through the village, passing a pub and a small Mission Church on the right. I turned left into Cogdells Lane – this soon changed from a residential street to a farm drive. Where it turned left towards the farm, I went straight ahead on a bridleway between hedges. This soon turned right, where a footpath continued ahead – I stopped on the stile here to eat my lunch. There was a very nice view over green fields in the valley before me, leading to yet another wood. As I munched my favourite Corned Beef and Branston pickle sarnies, I saw a Red Kite flying low over the fields. A few minutes later, a procession of cows and calves ambled into view along the valley bottom.

Lunch over, I continued on my way, staying on the bridleway as it ran between hedges parallel to the valley on my left. The left hedge was again trimmed very short, while the one on the right contained mature bushes and trees that often overhung the bridleway, so that at times I was almost in a green tunnel. Yellow Archangel and Greater Stitchwort were among the wildflowers I saw along here. The bridleway reached a wood, where I stopped o look back and admire the view along the green valley. I then carried on along a path through the wood, before turning right on a bridleway that ran along just inside its far edge.

After a while I came to a junction, where the bridleway turnd right but I continued ahead on a footpath, now with the wood on either side. At one point I recognised a path junction where I crossed the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail. From where I’d turned right onto the bridleway, I probably walked about thre quarters of a mile through the wood, the path slowly curving to the left, from almost due north to west. Eventually I reached a metal kissing-gate on the edge of the wood, and the path then continued across a green pasture, currently grazed by sheep though there had obviously been cows there not too long ago. Beyond another metal kissing-gate, the path continued alongside the right-hand boundary of a larger pasture to reach a road.

I turned right along the road, to reach a T-junction after about quarter of a mile. I took a path almost opposite the junction, running alongside a hedgerow on my left through another grassy meadow dotted with yellow dandelions. The path started to go downhill, with a wood ahead on the other side of the small valley, and a farm across the fields to my left. In the corner of the meadow, I went through a kissing-gate, and continued downhill, now with a fence separating me from a horse paddock on my left. The path then went up the opposite slope, with the wood on the left and a nice view over a ploughed field and along the valley on my right. The path continued alongside a hedge on the left, and went down into another slight dip where it switched to the other side of the hedge shortly before ending at a track carrying a bridleway. I followed the track in roughly the same direction as before, and saw a nice combinations of blue-purple Bluebells and white Greater Stitchwort in the hedgerow to my right.

I turned right for a few yards along Arriwig Lane, before turning left on a footpath immediately before Erriwig Farm (both these odd names derive from the Saxon for ‘way to the arable fields’, if I remember the Chiltern Way guidebook correctly!). The path followed a thin headland between fields and descended slightly to a long thin wood. It turned left just inside the wood and soon reached a path junction, where I turned right. I soon left the wood, and next crossed an area of rough ground with some clay pits to my right. I saw a lilac flower here which I think was another Cuckooflower, but I couldn’t get a decent photo to check as the wind was blowing quite strongly at this point and so the flower was moving about too much.

My route next led me along a drive towards Dundridge Manor Farm, between fields of green corn and with a nice view over the fields on my right. Two paths diverged when I reached the farm, and I followed the one going round to the right of the farm and across a field of yellow oil-seed rape. I went through a gap in the far hedgerow, and turned left along the edge of a similar field. This brought me to the drive to Dundridge Manor, which I followed a short distance to the right. I followed the road to the left for a quarter of a mile or so, taking the second turning on the left to return to my start point in Buckland Common.

This was another very enjoyable walk. There was a nice mixture of field paths and woods, lots of small ups and downs, and a bit of historical interest in the church and hill fort at Cholesbury. Today was a good day for a walk, although occasioanlly perhaps I felt a little warmer than I’d have preferred, despite the cooling wind and the frequent shade. Again there was an abundance of wildflowers (I’ve tried to reduce the number of times I mention them all!), and I saw some good butterflies today and managed to photograph three of them.

Total distance: 71.6 miles

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 7

Tuesday, May 13th, 2008

Below is a draft of my journal entry for Walk 7 of the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did on Saturday.

Walk 7 10/05/08 – Circular walk from Chesham (14.4 miles approximately)
Parked at Pay-and-Display car park at Chesham railway station.

Note: Much of this route is the same as the ‘Circular Walk from Chesham’ walk in the ‘Chiltern Hills’ section of my web site.
As this was a Saturday, I wasn’t worried about rush-hour traffic and so skipped my second cup of coffee at breakfast and set off earlier than usual. It was forecast to be warm again (24-25C) and so I wanted to do as much walking as I could before it got too hot – it was already 17C as I drove off from Kensworth. I parked at the station in Chesham and started walking just before 9.15am.

Chesham is the fourth largest town in Buckinghamshire, with a population of 23,000. In the past, beer, brushes, boots and watercress were among the major industries, but it is now largely a commuter town. Traditionally and locally the name is pronounced Chess-am, although it is more usually and widely pronounced Chesh-am. Rather surprisingly the river Chess takes its name from the town, rather than the other way around. Chesham is first recorded in Anglo-Saxon documents, including in the will of Lady Elgiva, a Saxon Queen. The town’s tube station is the last one on a spur off the Metropolitan Line.

I followed Station Road a short distance downhill into the centre of Chesham and turned left along the pedestrianised High Street. It was still quite quiet at this time of the morning, and the market stalls were still being put up in a row along the centre of the street. Near the end of the street, just before reaching the clock tower, I turned right to reach a dual carriageway that bypasses the centre of the town. On the other side I turned right for a few yards before turning into Church Street. I soon turned right into Bury Lane, and alleyway between old buildings that quickly led into Lowndes Park, where there was large pond ahead of me and slightly to the right. I followed the lane as it turned left along the edge of the park, passing the town church on my left. The lane soon ended but I continued on alongside the wall and then hedge on my left, through a large meadow which I think is still part of the park. There were sveral people walking there dogs here. Just before the end of the meadow, I took a path forking left through a narrow bit of woodland.

On the far side of the wood I turned right (the Chiltern Link, which I walked in 2005, goes diagonally across the field here, heading for the long valley of Herbert’s Hole which I could see in front of me). My path now followed the edge of the wood on my right – the field on my left, sloping down into a valley, seemed to have been planted with small trees or bushes. I passed a small tent beside the path here. Further on, the path continued beside some large paddocks. I saw a new wildflower here, Crosswort – I wondered if it was an escapee from a garden until I had it identified later on ‘Wild About Britain’. The path then ran between fences to reach a drive, with a road a few yards to the right. I turned left along the road and followed it for about half a mile into the village of Chartridge (which I’d also passed through on my last walk).

I turned right into Buslins Lane, which went steeply downhill, the tarmac soon being replaced by gravel as it left the village. The lane turned right when it got to the bottom of the valley, running between hedges with paddocks and a stable on the right. It then turned left and passed some cottages before reaching a lane. I continued down a farm drive on the other side (I saw some sort of Fumitory growing along here), and when this turned left I continued on a path between a hedge and a fence, heading uphill towards Captain’s Wood with sheep pastures on either side. I followed the path through the wood to a junction just inside the far edge, where I turned left. I kept right at a couple of forks in the path, staying as close as possible to the edge of the wood, before turning right at the next junction. I followed a hedge on my left across a meadow, with Mount Nugent farm ahead and to my right. I then followed the farm drive left to a road. The outskirts of Chesham were just a few yards to mt right, with the village of Bellingdon along the road to my left.

Across the road I managed to get a photograph of a Holly Blue butterfly. A footpath went half-left here, between garden boundaries on my left and the fences of some small pastures on my right, one of which had some cattle in it. Since leaving Captain’s Wood, I’d been retracing part of Walk 6, but I soon left that route by turning right at the next path junction. This followed a mature hedge on my right with meadows ful of tall buttercups on my left, and then passed through a section of Ramscoat Wood (which I’d also been through on the last walk). The path then turned left alongside the wood, and headed quite steeply down into the long valley of White Hawridge Bottom. There were nice views to the right, to where the valley meets another one called Chesham Vale. At the bottom of the hill, I turned right onto a gravel byway – initially there was an Ostrich farm to my left here, and I took a couple of snaps of these huge and inquisitive birds.

At the end of the byway I crossed the road runing through Chesham vale, and took the path ahead of me that first went through Little Passmore Farm. It continued uphill, initially alongside the wooden fence of a bungalow on my left, then between a wire fence and a hedge on my right. There were again nice views, this time to my left over a large meadow towards Chesham Vale. At the top of the hill, the path continued through two small meadows and then followed a private drive to reach the A416 road between Chesham and Berkamsted (part of the route I’d driven from Kensorth earlier).

Another footpath started on the other side of the road, following the right-hand hedgerow of a large corn field, with horses grazing in a paddock visible ahead of me. The hedge turned slightly right after a while, and a bit further on it turned right again – at this point the path left it, turning left across the field, following tractor tracks throuugh the young crop. On the far side I went through a kissing gate and continued along a narrow path between mature hedges that overhung the path to form a green tunnel – there was a lot of holly and ivy along here. The path ended by a metal farm gate and a concrete drive, where I turned right onto a similar path that soon led to a minor road in Lye Green.

I went a few yards to my left, then took a path on the other side of the road. Initially this had a brick wall around a small estate of expensive modern houses on the right – there was Red Campion, Garlic Mustard and some Cowslips growing here. The path then turned slightly left, went over a stile and crossed an empty, irregularly-shaped pasture, before following a driveway a few yards to another minor road. There was another path almost opposite, which continued between corn fields and then meadows, before joining a long, well-surfaced farm track. There were now paddocks to my right, and some small enclosures on the left, one of which contained a Llama. The track passed through a farmyard and ended at a road in the village of Botley.

I went a short distance to the right, before turning left down a lane. This went downhill, with gardens either side. At the bottom of the hill, I turned left into the intriguingly named Broomstick Lane (on my exploratory walk in this area, which is the ‘Circular walk from Chesham’ in the Chiltern Hills section of my web site, I turned right into Bottom Lane at this point). This started as a track but soon narrowed to a path, with garden boundaries on the left and a hedge and small pastures on the right. There was a lot of lovely Herb Robert growing along here, the most I’ve seen so far this year. After about quarter of a mile I turned right, following a hedgerow through a yellow speckled meadow to a wood.

Here I managed to go wrong – despite having been through this wood two or three times before (it’s on the route of the Chiltern Heritage Trail). As I’m doing this walk, I’m checking out the route descriptions that I’ve written for it (another reason, on top of all the photos, that I’m only averaging about 2½mph at the moment). So far they have been fine (they’ve been quite accurate, I’ve just needed to flesh them out a bit) but here they were woefully inaccurate and inadequate. I wasted about five minutes trying different paths at different junctions, before finding the correct route – the other times I’ve been here have been in Autumn or Winter when there wasn’t a thick undergrowth of foliage, that’s the only reason I can think of for why I didn’t recognise the way I’d been before.

On the far side of the wood, I followed a hedgerow through a small paddock, then the path continued as an alleyway beside some houses on the right. It ended beside a chapel on a road in Ley Hill. I turned right, soon reaching an odd junction where three or four roads radiated off from a sharp bend. I took a road going half left, between a cricket pitch and part of a golf course on my right. Two cyclists coming the other way said ‘Hello again!’ as they went past – I knew I’d seen them earlier, but I still can’t remember where on this walk it was. I saw a golfer retrieve his ball that had gone across the road, and then I passed the entrance to the golf club on the right. Having followed the road for almost half a mile, I took a bridleway on the left, just beyond a farm – four mountain bikers had emerged from the bridleway just before I reached it.

I followed the bridleway for about a mile, initially between fences with corn fields either side – across the small valley on the left I coud see an old chalk quarry. Further on the bridleway ran between hedges, as it descended very gently towards a valley ahead of me. After a few hot and dry days, there had been some thunderstorms yesterday evening – the paths here and elsewhere were not too wet, but just damp enough that the mud stuck to my boots as I walked along. The bridleway turned briefly left than right again at a slightly steeper section, then finally ended at a lane running through the valley of Flounden Bottom. This was currently being resurfaced (the machine had just gone past to the left) so as I turned to the right down the lane, the loose chippings joined the mud on the bottom of my boots.

After following the lane along the valley for a quarter of a mile, between green meadows and pastures speckled with yellow Daisies and Buttercups, I turned left on a path going uphill between fences to reach Long Wood. The path continued uphill through the wood, partly on wooden steps – I saw Cuckoo-pint, Garlic Mustard and Yellow Archangel amongst the wildflowers here. At the top of the hill, beyond the wood, the path continued on a surfaced track between fields. At a junction I turned right on a similar track – there were no signs, but this is shown as an ‘other route with public access’ on the map. It led to a crossroads with three public bridleways, where I took the one carrying on ahead, descending slightly through a wood. There was more Yellow Archangel here, Wood Spurge, Primroses, Wood Speedwell and a lot of Bugle, the first I’d seen this year. The path through the wood was muddy in a couple of places, but generally not too bad. The wood was mainly deciduous, but I passed a few conifers on the right at one point. On the far side of the wood, the bridleway turned left beside the wood, then went right to a junction with a path running through the attractive Chess Valley. I stopped on a stile here to eat my lunch, as it was now just after 1pm.

It had been very warm and humid all morning– the sky was rather hazy, mainly white rather than blue. I was already feeling rather drained by the heat, as I set off again, following the path west along the valley, at first through a field of rough grass and then through a large cattle pasture – the cows were all in a tight group down by the river. I have seen Little Egrets along the river here on previous occasions, but not today – if any were around, they’d have been hidden by the thick vegetation along the river. They’d also have been frightened off by the people paddling along the river – someone else looked as if they were collecting watercress (there is a commercial watercress business a little further along the valley). On the far side of the pasture I reached a road, where I turned right to reach the village of Latimer.

The village and parish of Latimer lies in Buckinghamshire, but borders Hertfordshire. It was originally joined with the neighbouring village of Chenies, when both were called Isenhampstead and there was a royal palace in the area. During the reign of Edward III the land was split between two barons, William Latimer and Thomas Cheyne, from whom the two villages derived their modern names. At the time of the English Civil War the manor of Latimer belonged to the Earl of Devonshire. Charles I was brought to Latimer on his way to London after being captured by the Parliamentarians.

There is a very attractive triangular green in the centre of Latimer. On the green is an old water pump, a memorial to the local men who died in the Boer war, and another tomb-shaped stone memorial marking the burial place of the heart of a horse that was wounded when a General Villebois was killed (also in the Boer War).

From near the left-hand end of the triangular green in the village centre, I took a footpath tht led across a meadow in front of house, with a nice view to my left over the Chess Valley. I turned right along a lane, soon passing the village church on my left. Further on I passed the entrance to a large private residentail estate, also on the left. There was some Red Campion and Russian Comfrey growing here. After half a mile of lane walking, I turned half-left on a path that crossed a large Barley field diagonally to reach a wood.. It was much cooler in the shade of the wood, and this was a very pleasant part of the walk. I passed a pond on the left, and further on saw a lot of the charming little Yellow Pimpernel that I’d come across on my last walk. There was also some Wavy Bitter-cress growing here.

Beyond the wood, I crossed a meadow, again speckled with yellow Buttercups and Dandelions. I crossed a lane and followed a hedge through an empty sheep pasture to a second lane (there was White Campion by the stile here, the first I’ve seen this year), where I went a short distance to the left. As the lane turned left by some houses and a farm, I turned right on a bridleway called Green Lane. This ran along between mature hedges, again the shade making this a cooler and pleasanter section of the walk. I followed it for some distance, with occasional views over the Chess Valley on my left. Herb Robert and Goldilocks Buttercup were amongst the wildflowers I passed along here. Eventually the bridleway descended gently down into a valley. Near the bottom I took a short path on the right that crossed a corner of a field of oil-seed rape to join a similar hedge-lined bridleway, where I turned right. I followed this bridleway some distance along the valley bottom, with the field of bright yellow rape to my right. I spotted Lesser Celandine, Yellow Archangel and more Cuckoo-pint here.

I came to a junction where another bridleway came in sharply from the left, and immediately after a footpath went across. I turned left onto the path (rejoining the route of the walk round Chesham that I’ve previously mentioned, and also following the final section of the Chiltern Heritage Trail) and followed it uphill beside a fence separating two meadows. I continued uphill, though less steeply, following tractor tracks across a large field of young corn. At the top of the hill, the path continued beside a hedge on the right, with school playing fields beyond. I crossed over a farm drive, and walked across a paddock. Through a kissing agte on the far side, the path turned right between a fence and haedge on the right. I then turned left through another kissing-gate, and followed a hedge on my right, having to take a slight detour round two of the four horses in this paddock.

In the field corner I went through another kissing-gate and went half-left through another corn field. The ground was sloping down ahead of me, and I could see a few valleys radiating away from Chesham. When I walked this path on the Chiltern Heritage Trail I was amused by the fact that the route across the field was marked by cairns of flintstones and I’ve always remembered it as the ‘cairned path’ – sadly there were no cairns here today. On the far side of the field, the path led steeply downhill between trees and bushes, going round a hairpin bend before crossing a bridge over the railway line. Immediately over the bridge I turned right on atarmac path that soon took me to Chesham Staion and my waiting car.

It was about 3.05pm when I got back to my car so, allowing for my lunch stop, it had taken about 5 hours and 40 minutes to walk the 14.4 miles. Very slow going, but largely due to the 150+ photos I’d taken. I did feel more tired than usual at the end of the walk, quite drained in fact, but that was hardly surprising considering the very warm conditions – unlike my walk two days ago, there’d been no wind to take the edge off the temperature.

This was another good walk, with a variety of scenery and some pleasant views ove r the rolling hills and valleys of the Chilterns. I think I’d have enjoyed it more if it had been a fraction cooler, and also if I’d had a decent night’s sleep the night before – I’d been feeling rather low on energy all day.

Total distance: 86.0 miles

Website Update and Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 5

Friday, May 9th, 2008

I have just updated my “Pete’s Walks” website. I have added and amended some photos of birds and wildflowers, and added the journal entries for my first four walks on the Chiltern Chain Walk.

The following is the draft version of my journal entry for the fifth walk on the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did on Tuesday.

Walk 5 6/05/08 – Wendover Woods and Aston Hill (12.6 miles approximately)
Parked at the Pay-and-display car park at Wendover Woods.

Note: This route is the same as the ‘Wendover Woods and Wigginton’ walk in the ‘Chiltern Hills’ section of my web site.

A really lovely day was in prospect as I set off from home today – bright blue skies with just a few puffy white clouds, and the temperature was forecast to reach 20C. And I was very much looking forward to doing this walk – I did it as one of my exploratory walks when I was planning the route of the Chiltern Chain Walk, and it was so good that I decided to include it in the route without any alterations at all.

It was about 9.40am as I started off from the Forestry Commission car park in Wendover Woods. The car park was fairly quiet, but there were a few joggers and dog walkers about. I followed the track to the right of the car park, heading southwest into the woods. I soon passed an area for barbecues on my right, and further on the hard-surfaced track passed the start of a fitness trail branching off to the right. I soon realised that this was going to be a slow walk, as I was so frequently stopping to take photographs. The trees looked beautiful with their bright green leaves – everything seemed fresh and new. After a while, there was a bank of earth to my left, possibly part of an Iron Age hill fort (indicated on the map) here on Boddington Hill. To my right was the steep slope of the Chiltern escarpment, and occasionally I would get a glimpse through the trees to the lower ground of the Vale of Aylesbury. I passed a signed viewpoint where there was a gap in the trees, where I took some photos looking out over Wendover.

Wendover Woods, named after the nearby Buckinghamshire village, cover about 800 acres in the Chiltern Hills. They consist of a mixture of coniferous and deciduous trees, and are owned by the Forestry Commission. They are a very popular local amenity, with walks, bridleways, picnic and barbeque areas, and a café by the large (but sometimes full!) car park. The woods cover several hills, including Boddington Hill, which is surmounted by the remains of an Iron Age hill fort, and Haddington Hill which is the highest point in the Chilterns at 876 feet (Pavis Wood on the flank of this hill contains the highest point in Hertfordshire at 844 feet, so the hill is the highest point in two counties).

There were some good wildflowers along here. I was delighted to see my first Herb Robert of the year – this is my favourite flower, and I thought it was supposed to start flowering last month, so I have been looking out for it. I also spotted a flower I’d not seen, which I later identified as Woodruff (thanks again to the clever and helpful folk at the ‘Wild About Britain’ web site!). There was a lot of Dog’s Mercury and some Garlic Mustard too. There were several Violets, seemingly larger than ones I’ve seen previously – I really must get round to learning how to identify the different types of this flower.

The track started to descend gently, and then turned left. I saw some Wood Spurge growing here. The track ended at a junction with another track, where I turned sharply right, still heading downhill. When the track levelled out, I took a short track forking left to reach Hale Lane, where I turned right and followed the lane for about half a mile to reach the edge of Wendover – there were Buttercups and a few other wildflowers growing along the verge, and I passed a flock of sheep beyond a hedge on my right. I turned left at the end of the lane, then turned left again after another 200 yards or so. This was Hogtrough Lane, where I joined the route of the Ridgeway National Trail. The tarmac surface soon ended, but the lane continued as a roughly-surfaced track between hedges. There were views over the attractive valley called The Hale to my left, and to the wooded Boddington Hill that I’d just descended. Again there were plenty of wildflowers along the track – including Greater Stitchwort, Yellow Archangel, more Herb Robert, only the second Wood Sorrel I’d ever seen, and some Forget-me-nots (another plant where I need to learn to identify between the different types).

After half a mile or so, I passed a farm on my left. I followed the track a short distance further through trees, following the Ridgeway left at a junction at the foot of a hill (the Chiltern Link, which I walked almost three years ago, went straight on here). The Ridgeway soon forked right, and I followed it on a well-engineered and well-maintained path that rose gradually through the trees of Barn Wood. There were more Violets and Woodruff along here, and I was surprised to see some Cowslips. It was quite a long but not too steep ascent, back onto the top of the Chiltern escarpment. Near the top, I took a path forking right which soon led to a track along the top of the hill where I turned right. I was immediately struck by the profusion of wildflowers here, almost all the ‘usual suspects’ being present – Lesser Celandine, Bluebells, Greater Stitchwort, Dog’s Mercury, Garlic Mustard. As I followed the track, rather muddy in places, there was quite a good display of Bluebells amongst the trees on either side. After maybe a third of a mile I came to a staggered junction of sorts, where a path came in from the right and a few yards further on a second one went left, which was the way I went. Here the wood was truly carpeted by Bluebells, the best display I’ve seen so far this year. The chap I met in Ashridge last Monday who said they were a week away from their peak was obviously correct! It was delightful walking through the trees, with their bright green young leaves, with the ground a sea of blue either side of the path.

On leaving the wood, the path continued through a narrow tree belt, with fields either side – the corn here seemed further advanced than anywhere else I’ve seen it. At the end of the field, the path went a few yards right, before resuming it’s previous direction through another wood, Baldwin’s Wood. A few yards too my left was a low embankment (covered in Bluebells, of course!), part of another section of Grim’s Ditch, which I’d come across on the previous walk – I’d be following it’s course for the next two or three miles. After a short distance I came to a point where there were openings out on either side, where a footpath crossed more corn fields. But I continued on back into the woods, still enjoying the lovely surroundings. I passed a sign warning of forestry operations, and after a while the path became a wide track badly rutted by the forestry vehicles. There was a very strong and sweet smell here which I didn’t recognise at all.

The track ended at a T-junction of lanes, where I carried on along the lane ahead of me. I thought this lane walk would be a less interesting section, but it was made really pleasant by the wide selection of colourful wildflowers in the hedgerows either side – Yellow Archangel, some impressive Dandelions, more Herb Robert, Greater Stitchwort, Wood Anemones and Violets amongst others. At the end of the lane, after about half a mile, I went left for a few yards then took a footpath on the right, resuming my original direction. This followed the drive of a house for a few yards, then continued on with a wire fence on my left separating the path from a meadow. It continued through a small bit of rather scrubby woodland, where I saw my first Speckled Wood butterflies of the year. I then followed the left-hand hedge of some small meadows or paddocks, passing through a sequence of gates. There was a lot of Green Alkanet growing in the hedgerow.

On reaching another lane, I turned right for a few yards then turned left onto a track (curiously, the finger post here indicated that it was both footpath and a bridleway), continuing in the same north-easterly direction as before. As well as being on the course of Grim’s Ditch, the hard-surfaced track was also running along the border between Buckinghamshire and Hertfordshire (on my left). I noticed a large pond across the fields on my left, surrounded on three sides by a wood. Again there were numerous wildflowers along the track, with some Red Dead-nettles being the only one I’d not already seen today. I also saw an Orange-tip butterfly as I walked along. The track eventually passed some houses on the right and shortly after ended at Shire Lane. I continued on a path starting just a few yards to the left, following the right edge of a field of dazzling yellow oil-seed rape. In the field corner I went through a gap in the hedge and went a few yards right, before turning left again.

At this point I joined part of the Chiltern Way again (the Ridgeway path follows the northern escarpment of the Chilterns and the Chiltern Way runs a parallel route a mile or two further east, so its inevitable that the Chiltern Chain Walk should overlap with those long-distance paths in places). I was also back on the line of Grim’s Ditch, here a rather indeterminate ditch running through thin belt of mainly beech trees. The path twisted and turned through the trees, running left of the ditch. There were again many Bluebells here, and some holly bushes amongst the beech trees. At the end of the tree belt I crossed over a broad track between hedges, and continued on a clear path across another field of oil-seed rape. The crop here was not so well developed, and there were only small patches of yellow amongst the predominant blue-green foliage. The path then entered another wood, running along close to its left edge to reach another lane.

Across the lane I went over a stile and continued through a small beech wood, close to its edge with a large cow pasture just a few yards to my right. Beyond the wood the path continued through another very long thin belt of trees. I soon passed a small pond on my left, which I didn’t remember from my previous walks along here. In places the path followed the left edge of the tree belt, alongside a huge field of young corn, with a farm and a few houses visible across the far side. I noticed a pair of Kestrels, seemingly hunting low over the field, perhaps looking for Skylarks nests. When I reached the end of the tree belt, the path continued on through a line of yellow gorse bushes to finally reach the end of the massive field to my left. I went a few yards left to a kissing-gate, and crossed a meadow (bright with yellow Dandelions) to reach a minor road on the edge of Wigginton.

I turned left and followed the road into the village. There was a lot of Garlic Mustard growing in the hedges here. As the road turned slightly right, I went straight on along a footpath with a sports field to my left (I was now retracing part of Walk 4). I crossed a road and continued down the street opposite (the house on the corner has some large dogs which usually bark and make me jump when I go by – this time one was lying asleep on the other side of the fence, and I was sorely tempted to get by own back by barking loudly at it!). At the end of the street the path continued along the edge of a small playing field, and then turned left along the far side. In the corner I went through a gate, and continued down a road ahead of me. Again there was more Garlic Mustard in the hedges here. On the edge of the village I stopped to take a photo of the nice view out towards Pitstone Hill and Ivinghoe Beacon. I then turned left (leaving the route of Walk 4, which came in from the right here), passing some cottages on my left and entering Tring Park.

Tring Park is a large country house near Tring, Hertfordshire. In 1975, the A41 dual carriageway split the grounds – the house, renamed Tring Mansion, now houses “The Arts Educational School, Tring Park”, while the greater part of the extensive grounds are managed by the Woodland Trust. Little is known of the early history of the house, but it was held by Royalists during the Civil War. In the 1800’s and early 1900’s it was owned by members of the Rothschild family (as were many other grand houses nearby – this area was once called ‘Rothschildshire’). The 2nd Lord Rothschild’s zoological collection forms the basis of the Natural History Musueaum at Tring. He also released the edible Dormouse into Tring Park, and had his carriage pulled by Zebras (the town’s symbol has been the head of a Zebra ever since).

I followed the level track into the trees, passing a notice board and seeing some more Herb Robert. I soon came to a junction where I went left, following the good level track along the top of the escarpment – this is “King Charles’ Ride”, Charles I and Nell Gwynne having reputedly been guests at the grand house here. There were a lot of Yew trees along the first section of the ride, which then widened out and was mainly lined by beech trees. I stopped to eat my lunch (it was now just before 1pm) on a bench where there was a clearing giving nice views out over the park, the house and Tring, to the Vale of Aylesbury beyond – I could see Mentmore Towers, and further east the tall spire of the church at Leighton Buzzard, with the start of the Greensand Ridge just beyond. Two Brimstone butterflies cavorted nearby as I ate my cheese sandwiches and cherry scones.

Suitably refreshed, I carried on along the ride, which soon narrowed slightly and ran through an area of young trees, with the ground again covered in Bluebells. On emerging at a lane, I turned left and then went right at a junction, following Church Lane into the hamlet of Hastoe. Again there were a good selection of wildflowers to add interest to the lane walk. The lane ended at a junction, where I continued on a byway almost opposite.

Hastoe is the highest hamlet in Hertfordshire (the high point is in Pavis Wood, quarter of a mile away on Haddington Hill, whose summit is the highest pint in Buckinghamshire). Like Tring Park, it is closely associated with the Rothschild family, who built many of the cottages here for their farm workers. Lionel Rothschild was very fond of hunting and established a kennels in the village.

The flinty track soon came to a house, where I took the path forking to its left. Where the house’s garden finished, I came to a junction of several paths – when I first walked this route, I had to alter my original intentions at this point, as a path marked on the map here doesn’t appear to exist at all, the only such problem I had in all my exploratory walks for the Chiltern Chain Walk. I now went half-right, on a narrow path heading steadily downhill through the trees of Grove Wood. Curiously, this path is one of three or four interconnected byways here – I’d love to know why they are byways and not bridleways. At the bottom of the slope I turned left onto another byway, leaving the wood behind me. The byway ran between tall and mature hedges either side, with paddocks beyond. It curved round to the left to a junction with another byway going right. I went straight on, to reach a T-junction with another similar hedge-lined byway where I turned right.

I soon passed a cottage on my right and reached a lane. The byway continued the other side, initially much narrower but soon widening again. After a while I reached a crossing path, where I turned left to follow a hedgerow on my right. As I followed the path beside two fields of green corn, there were nice views over the field to the wooded slopes leading back up to Hastoe, and ahead to the wooded Aston Hill. Beyond the two field the path ran a short distance between fences and hedges to another lane. I followed this a short distance to the right, before taking another path on the left.

This was the start of a steepish ascent of Aston Hill, the path running along just inside the right edge of a wood, beside a large sheep pasture. There were nice views out to the right, giving me a good excuse for stopping occasionally. Nearer the top of the hill, beyond the pasture, the path continued through the beech wood – I followed a fence on my right, the boundary of an area of woods used by a Mountain Bike Centre (though as I carried on, it wasn’t obvious that this is still operating). The path then continued beside a long wooden garden fence on my left, to reach the end of a drive by a farm. Here I followed the drive to the right, passing some more gorse bushes on my right and then further on some more Yew trees on my left. The drive ended at a road beside the Mountain Bike Centre ( though the only activity here was some logging work) on Aston Hill.

Aston Hill has nice views over the Vale of Aylesbury. It takes its name from the village of Aston Clinton at its foot. The hill has a proud claim to fame in the field of motoring. Between 1904 and 1925 the road up the hill was a renowned venue for hillclimbing, and on 4th April 1914, Lionel Martin made his first ascent in a tuned Singer car. The next month, he was so successful in the Herts County Automobile and Aero Club meeting, that the sporting light car first registered in his name was called an ASTON-MARTIN. There is a plaque by the side of the road commemorating the origin of the famous Aston Martin marque.

The path on the opposite side of the road seems to have been recently diverted. Instead of going through a garden, it starts a few yards further left and follows a driveway to reach the far side of the garden. Back on the old course, it goes left here along a line of trees with another garden over a fence on the right. I then just about squeezed through a very tall gate, and continued on along a green path back into the trees of Wendover Woods. I soon reached a bend in the long drive to the car park, which I followed for a quarter of a mile or so back towards my start point.

Just before getting back to the car park, a sign prompted me to take a short diversion to the left. I followed a path for a couple of hundred yards or so through the trees, to where a group of large stones and a plaque had been erected to mark the highest point in the Chilterns. Until recently I had believed Coombe Hill to be the highest point in the Chilterns, but this point in Wendover Woods, Haddington Hill, at 876 feet above sea level is 20 or so feet higher than Coombe Hill. I retraced my steps and went back to the car park to complete a thoroughly enjoyable walk.

I have always said that Autumn is my favourite season – but after a Spring day as lovely as this, I may be changing my mind! The abundance of multi-coloured wildflowers alongside the paths and lanes, and the fresh green leaves on the trees makes walking so much more delightful at this time of year. But then this walk would be a joy at any time – I had thoroughly enjoyed myself when I first walked it in late Autumn. The walk includes a lot of attractive woods, interspersed with a few sections of field paths, there are some good views (especially from Wendover Woods and Aston Hill), Tring Park and Grim’s Ditch add historic interest, and overall the walk provides a nice variety of scenery. It is certainly a walk that I will be very happy to do again..

Total distance: 59.3 miles

Chiltern Chain Walk – Walk 4

Sunday, May 4th, 2008

This is a rough draft (unchecked) of my journal entry for my fourth walk on the Chiltern Chain Walk, which I did yesterday.

Walk 4 3/05/08 – Pitstone Hill and Wigginton (11.6 miles approximately)
Parked at the car park at Pitstone Hill.

Again I was able to get off to an early start, walking out of the car park at Pitstone Hill about 9.20am. It was a pleasant day, a lot of cloud with just a few blue patches, reasonably warm but initially with a cool wind.

I began by going straight up a small hillock, quite a steep start to the walk but I was soon at the top and was amply rewarded by some nice views. Ahead of me I could see the path heading up Pitstone Hill, behind me were Steps Hill and Ivinghoe Beacon beyond, to my left I could see the valley leading to Aldbury backed by the wooded slopes of Ashridge, while to my right I could see for miles over the Vale of Aylesbury. I headed down the other side, and started the gentle ascent of Pitstone Hill, close to a fence on my left. I was now on the route of the Ridgeway, which I’d be following as far as Wigginton. There were fields to my left – this side of Pitstone Hill is very gentle with fields almost to the top of the hill, whereas the far side is a steep slope of grass and scrub. There were a few Cowslips growing here, but I didn’t see any other wildflowers – in a month or two’s time there will be a good selection of chalk downland plants growing here.

I stopped at the top of Pitstone Hill to briefly admire the views. In front of me, looking south-west, I could see across the Tring Gap to Wigginton where I was headed – the Tring Gap is an important breach in the Chiltern escarpment, being a major transport route with a road dating back to the Romans, the Grand Union Canal and a major railway line. Again to my right there were extensive views over the Vale of Aylesbury.

Pitstone Hill has impressive views over the Vale of Aylesbury, and is a good site for wildflowers such as Clustered Bellflower. In the middle of a field to the northwest is Pitstone Windmill. This post-mill has the date 1627 carved on its framework, the earliest date on any windmill in Britain – as this could be the date of repair work, the windmill could be even older than that. It belonged to the Ashridge Estate for many years, but in 1902 it was damaged beyond economic repair in a storm. In 1922 it was bought by a neighbouring farmer who donated it to the National Trust fifteen years later. A keen band of enthusiasts started restoring it in 1963, and it ground corn in 1970 for the first time in 68 years. It is open on Sunday afternoons in the summer.

I turned slightly left and followed part of the ancient Grim’s Ditch as it gently descended across the hillside – signs requested people to walk in the ditch rather than on the bank, as the latter was gradually being eroded away. Through a kissing-gate the path continued through the woodlands of Aldbury Nowers (to be honest, I don’t know if that is the name of the wood or the hill). I was surprised to see more Cowslips here amongst the trees, though they were close to some scrubland that was occasionally to the right of the path. I have walked this path many times over the years, and it is always a very pleasant experience. The path wends it way through the trees, with the hillside sloping down to the right, generally following the line of Grim’s Ditch although the earthwork isn’t apparent too often. After about half a mile the path went down some steps, went past a junction where a path went off to the right, and then a few yards further on reached a second junction where a wooden finger post showed that the Ridgeway went right.

Grim’s Ditch (or Grim’s Dyke or just Grimsdyke) is the name shared by a number of ancient linear earthworks, mainly in the south of England but also as far afield as Yorkshire. They are believed to date back to the Iron Age, and as they are too small for military purposes are thought to demarcate territory. The name derives from the Saxon word for the devil or the God of the Underground, Grim (or Odin). There are intermittent sections of Grim’s Ditch from Pitstone and Ivinghoe as far west as Bradenham near High Wycombe, a distance of almost 20 miles.

Following the Ridgeway right, I almost immediately came to a notice board for a nature reserve, the snappily titled “Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother’s Nature Reserve, Duchie’s Piece (Aldbury Nowers)”. It is run by the Herts and Middlesex Wildlife Trust, and is renowned for the butterflies that are found there. Today there were a flock of sheep grazing there – the wildlife trusts and other such bodies often use them to help maintain the ecology of such sites. The path ran slightly downhil between fences, with sections of the reserve either side, to reach a path crossroads at the foot of the hil where I turned left. The path was now a good level track between hedges, which I followed for almost half a mile. I spotted a very good example of Cowslip along here, and there was a lot of Garlic Mustard. Today was the first day of a Bank Holiday weekend, and the only day of the three where the weather was meant to be good, so there were a lot of other walkers about. I’d passed several already, and met several more along this stretch.

On reaching another path crossroads, I turned right – I soon joined a cement farm drive that led to a road. I turned right and followed the road for a few hundred yards, going over a railway line (the west coast main line) and passing Tring Station, which is actually about 1.5 miles south of the town itself. I passed a group of six or seven young lads here, all carrying heavy rucksacks, and there’d been another small group of hikers assembling at the station. A little further on, the road crosed the Grand Union Canal and then I turned left at a junction. There were road works going on here, but I assumed the red light didn’t apply to pedestrians and carried on. I soon turned right on to a footpath, which immediately crossed an artificial horse gallop then continued in a straight line between fences and hedges. Either side were sheep pastures, dotted here and there by large trees, evidence that it was once the parkland around a grand house. For a while the path followed a farm drive again, before continuing between another fence and a wood – I saw a good example of Lords-and-Ladies here.

The path ended at a road, which had been the A41 before the building of the new dual carriageway and which was on the course of a Roman road called Akeman Street. I crossed over and went a few yards to the right before continuing on another footpath – there were a couple of horses here beside a kissing-gate. I soon reached the impressive footbridge that carries the Ridgeway over the A41 dual carriageway. On the over side, the path soon reached another kissing gate then went across a gap between two pastures to another kissing gate, beyond which it continued between fences and hedges. The path ended at an old lane called ‘The Twist’, where I had to go a few yards left before another path started on the other side. There was a good selection of wildflowers in the hedgerow along the lane – Lesser Celandine, Greater Stitchwort, Yellow Archangel, Bluebells, Dog’s Mercury and a new yellow flower I’d not seen before (tentatively identified as Goldilocks Buttercap by the helpful people on the Wild About Britain web site).

The route now took me along a fenced path beside a ploughed field on my left, then slightly right to follow the edge of a small meadow with a wood on my right. Beyond the wood there were good views over the Vale of Aylesbury, as the path followed a garden hedge on the left to reach a road on the edge of Wigginton. Here I turned left, finally leaving the route of the Ridgeway. A gentleman carrying two shopping bags commented on how muddy the last section of the path was, and we got talking as we followed the road through the village. We chatted mainly about wildflowers, particularly orchids, and he mentioned a site for Pyramidal Orchids near Hemel Hempstead. I parted from him where the road turned left – I went ahead through a gate into a small playng field, turning left alongside the hedge then going right in the next corner. The path continued from the playing field along a short residential street, then continued on the other side of a road through a much larger sports field to reach another road.

I turned left here for a few yards, then took a footpath on the right. Having crossed the Tring Gap from norheast to southwest, I was now heading back to cross it in the opposite direction. The next section was quite delightful, as the path gently descended a hillside through some charming hay meadows. These were full of daisies, buttercups and especially dandelions, a few of which had already turned to seed heads. The path continued gently downhill through an empty pasture to reach Lower Wood. Here there was an abundance of Wood Amenones either side of the path. On the far side of the wood (now on the route of the Chiltern Way, which I’d follow as far as the edge of Aldbury) I followed the edge of a large paddock, and then crossed the corner of an arable field. A track then led right, parallel to the noisy A41 dual carriageway, to reach a lane. I turned left, passing under the dual carriageway, then took a byway on the right. There was some Green Alkanet growing here, though presumably escaped from a nearby garden. Further on I passed more sports fields on either side, the byway taking me to the small village of Cow Roast.

The name Cow Roast is thought to be a corruption of ‘Cow Rest’, as in the 1770’s the inn here was a stopping point for cattle drovers from the Midlands on their way to Smithfields Market in London. The inn is on the site of a Roman settlement, and in a later period of history it supplied horses for pulling the barges on the adjacent Grand Union Canal.

I turned right, passing the Cow Roast Inn, then turned left down a narrow lane that soon crossed the Grand Union canal by a lock. The lane turned sharply right beyond the canal bridge, and after a further 200 yards or so I took a footpath on the right. This crossed a ploughed field, then went across a footbridge over the railway line. I went across a field of young green corn, then turned right with a paddock containing a few Alpacas on my left. The path turnd right to continue round another side of the paddock, and then passed through the yard of Norcott Court Farm.

The path then turned half-left, going diagonally acrosss a large meadow that sloped up to my right. The path here was initially indistinct, but it soon appeared as a narrow line through the grass. To my left was a view over the Tring Gap, towards the Ridgeway footbridge over the A41 that I’d crossed earlier. I went over a stile in the field corner, and continued alongside a fence and then hedge on my right. In a corner where the hedge turned left, the path went through the hedge to a stile, and continued across another meadow, again rising diagonally to the far corner. Across another stile, I only went a few yards into the next pasture before turning right, going through a tall gate to join a good track heading uphill through trees. Again there were a numbere of wilflowers here, including Germander Speedwell, Primroses and Wood Anemones.

Near the top of the hill the track reached the hamlet of Tom’s Hill, a small cluster of houses and, somewhat incongruously in the sylvan surroundings, a small industrial estate. The track became a surfaced lane leading away from the hamlet, back into the trees. There was a lot of Garlic Mustard and Dog’s Mercury along here – these two have now been officially added to my list of ‘usual suspects’, the flowers I see almost everywhere on my walks at this time of year. Later in the year there will be masses of Small Balsam growing here. The lane came to a junction at a hairpin bend on a minor road. I went ahead for a few yards, then went slightly left on a path descending steadily through the trees. At the bottom of the slope, I parted from the Chiltern Way (which goes right here, back uphill into Ashridge) and went ahead for a hundred yards or so into Aldbury, turning right along a path between garden hedges (where I saw a lot more Lords-and-Ladies). I then passed throughed the village’s allotments to reach another road, where I turned right and soon found myslef at the village centre. Across the duck pond, there were a few people on horseback outside the pub, and as usual there were large numbers of visitors wandering around.

Aldbury is an understandably popular village, with its charming old cottages, village pond and combined whipping post and stocks, all set against the backdrop of the steep wooded slopes of Ashridge. The village is frequently used as a setting for TV and films (several episodes of The Avengers were filmed here, and so too was part of the second Bridget Jones film). The village church, restored in 1867, contains a memorial to Sir Robert Whittingham, slain at the Battle of Tewkesbury in 1471 (a major battle in the Wars of the Roses).

I turned right, but very quickly went left on a broad track. There was some more Oregon Grape growing here, as I passed a couple of cottages. The track started to ascend quite steeply heading back into the woods of Ashridge – I have calculated that it is a 1-in-6 gradient for half a mile to the Bridgewater Monument (where the previous walk started and finished) at the end, though I wouldn’t be following it quite that far today. I met several more walkers coming the other way as I plodded steadily on, passing two or three junctions where paths went off on either side. Shortly after reaching a stretch where the gradient eased considerably, I took a bridleway forking left (the monument and the National Trust teashop would have been just a bit further on if I’d stayed on the main path).

The bridleway contoured round just below the top of the escarpment, and was a very pleasant path to walk as it wound its way amongst the trees. It soon reached a drive to some isolated ottages in the woods, and continued ahead with the garden boundary of one of the cottages on my left. I found some Cuckooflower growing here, the first time I’d come across it. A path then came in sharply from the right, and the bridleway turned slightly left, now descending the escarpment. At the bottom of the slope it turned left and exited the woods. A short distance further on, I turned right on to a path across a field of young corn. This then went half-left across a second similar field. I could see Pitstone Hill away to my left, while to my right and ahead of me the wooded Chiltern escarpment curved round the small but attractive valley of Duncombe.

I turned left along the lane to Duncombe Farm for 100-200 yards, then turned right on a footpath that ran for a hundred yards or so between hedges to a stile and farm gate. Over the stile, the path turned left in a large meadow that sloped up the escarpment to the right. The path followed a clear groove through the grass, curving to the right and gently going uphill. The meadow was full of Cowslips – I have never seen so many before, they were as numerous here as Dandelions had been in the other meadows I’d passed through today. Beyond this large and colourful meadow, the path continued through another grassy field beside a fence, then went over a stile and followed a short track through trees.
This soon came to the main track from the Monument to Ivinghoe Beacon, which I’d followed at the start of my previous walk (the kennels were just to my right). I turned left here, the drive from the kennels descending slightly to a junction, where I left the route of Walk 3 by forking left. This path led downhill through the trees to a stile, beyond which it descended more gently through an area of scrub. It then emerged into a more open and flatter area of grass, where it followed a fence on my left with a large arable field beyond. Ahead and to my right I could see Steps Hill rising above the deep cleft of Incombe Hollow – there were a dozen or so people on the curving path that carries the Ridgeway to the top of the hill. I soon reached a path crossroads, where I turned left, back on the Ridgeway again. I now followed the fence through another vast meadow – today it was full of Dandelions, but I remembered walking through it last summer with a friend when it was full of different wildflowers and the wonderful scent was almost overpowering. At the end of the path I crossed a lane to return to the car park where I’d started.

It wasn now about 1.20pm, the walk having taken about 4 hours (despite me taking about 160 photos). I hadn’t bothered stopping for lunch, as I’d realised I’d be home wll before 2pm. Having changed out of my walking boots, I was just about to get into the car and drive off when I saw a Red Kite drifting round to the left of the hillock that I’d gone up at the start of the walk. A very nice way to finish today’s walk!

This was another very good walk, on a very pleasant day for walking. There was a good amount of up and down, a bit of history in Grim’s Ditch, lots of wildflowers, very good views in several places and Aldbury is always very charming, though a bit too popular perhaps. I thoroughly enjoyed the walk, my only regret being that it wasn’t a few miles longer. I think I’ve been spoiling myself only doing 12-mile walks in recent months, when I finish the Chiltern Chain Walk I’ll definitely have to get back to walking 15 miles a day.

Total distance: 46.7 miles