Here are the draft journal entries for Walks 15 and 16 of the Chiltern chain Walk, which I did on Wednesday and Thursday.
Walk 15 4/06/08 Hambleden and Ibstone (12.9 miles approximately)
Parked in village car park in Hambleden.
This morning I had one of those annoying drives when I seemed to forever get stuck behind slow-moving vehicles. The journey took 5-10 minutes longer than it would normally, and so, despite an early start from Kensworth, it was 10.10am when I started walking from the car park in Hambleden.
Hambleden, set in its valley rimmed by woods, has remained an unspoilt village due to the benevolence of the Hambleden estate that owns much of it, and the National Trust to which most of it is covenanted. It has therefore avoided the ravages of modern development. Its characteristic Chiltern brick-and-flint houses have made it an ideal setting for films and TV. There is an old pump by a tree in the village square, and several old-fashioned shops. In the Domesday Book of 1086 it is recorded that the manor of Hambleden was given to Queen Matilda. A mill at Mill End a mile south of the village then paid an annual rent of £1, and there is still a mill on that site today (the weir is said to have been built in the reign of Henry V, 1413-1422). In 1215 the manor was held by King John, through his subsidiary title as Earl of Gloucester. It then passed to Richard de Clare and then his son Gilbert de Clare these two were the next two signatories of the Magna Carta after King John himself. 1215 is also the first year that mention is made of a Rector of Hambleden, Ralph Neville. He was a prominent statesman, holding five other livings and holding the very important role of Chancellor of England. He became Bishop of Chichester in 1224 and seven years later was appointed Archbishop of Canterbury however the Pope refused to ratify this latter appointment. St Thomas de Cantilupe, the last pre-Reformation English saint, was born in Hambleden. He too was a Chancellor of England (1265) and became Bishop of Hereford in 1275. He died in 1282, being canonised in 1320.
I turned left out of the car park, and wandered down the street into the centre of the village. The workshop and family butchers on the left were familiar from numerous TV series. I crossed the triangular square in the centre of the village (as usual pretty full with parked cars), with the church to my right. I followed the narrow street ahead of me, passing more quaint brick and flint cottages. It soon turned right, with the Hambleden Brook flowing to my left. The road was partly flooded as I went by the church again.
Hambleden church is originally Norman, but built on the site of an earlier Saxon church. It has been much changed over the centuries. There is an ancient font that may be early 12th century or even a relic of the Saxon church it is certainly where the previously mentioned St Thomas de Cantilupe was baptised. In the North Transept is a monument to Sir Cope DOyley, his wife and ten children, consisting of alabaster figures in front of a plaque. A few of the figures of the children carry skulls, a sign that they predeceased their parents. In the graveyard is the tomb of W. H. Smith for many years a church warden here, he was the founder of the stationers that bears his name, an MP and a statesmen, and later the first Viscount Hambleden. His descendants still live in the village.
I soon came to a kissing-gate on the right, where I followed a path across a large flat pasture. There were a large number of young bullocks here and they were congregated by the kissing gate on the far side, so I had to march right through them, ushering a few of them out of my way so I could reach the gate. The path continued through a smaller empty pasture (possibly interconnected with the first one, as when I drove home I saw the bullocks were now in both pastures). The path then ran alongside a wooden fence beside a meadow to reach the hamlet of Pheasants Hill. When I first came here on the Chiltern Way in 2005, there was a topiary face (like one of the Mr Men) carved in the corner of a hedge here. It has long gone, but I could just about see the gash where its mouth had been.
The path continued as an alley between hedges and fences, the alley dividing a series of gardens in two. I crossed a lane and left the hamlet, following the right-hand hedge of another pasture there were more cattle here, but some distance away to my left. I saw some Buzzards circling over the wood on top of the hillside to my right. The path soon switched to the left of the hedgerow, as it continued through a corn field. It then went through a paddock, where two horses had some masks made of netting, to protect there eyes from flies. I now reached the hamlet of Colstrope, where I followed the lane ahead of me past a few houses. After a hundred yards or so the lane turned right, but I carried on ahead along the footpath.
This early part of the walk was all along the Hambleden Valley (and was following the Chiltern Way as far as Fingest). The valley is quite broad and flat bottomed, with the Hambleden Brook flowing through it. Either side are steepish hillsides, in most places topped by woods. This is popular country for Red Kites (Id seen a few already) as well as the Buzzards Ive already mentioned. Looking ahead (north) along the valley, I could see a windmill, Cobstone Mill, on top of its hill above Turville and Fingest, two of the villages Id be passing through today.
In my opinion, the Hambleden valley is one of the best areas for seeing Red Kites in the Chilterns. These magnificent reddish-brown and grey birds, with their five-foot wingspan and distinctive forked tail, became extinct in England and Scotland at the end of the 19th century, due to persecution and egg-collecting. Only a few pairs remained in remote mid-Wales. In 1989 a project was launched to re-introduce the Kites in the Chilterns and elsewhere. Over the next five years around 90 birds from Spain were released in the Chilterns, and the first successful breeding took place in 1992. There are now thought to be over 300 pairs of Red Kites in the Chilterns the reintroduction here has been so successful, that between 2004 and 2006 94 birds were taken from here to start a new population in the North East of England. Dont assume all large birds of prey you see here are Red Kites, though, as Buzzards are also doing well in the Chilterns as elsewhere in the country. At a distance they are most easily distinguished from Red Kites by their fan-shaped tail they also have slightly shorter and broader wings. It is not uncommon to see both birds together.
The path continued alongside a hedge on my left, through another arable field, and then ran through a short section between hedges, with many tree roots exposed across the path. I crossed another lane, and continued on a path through a meadow here I photographed what turned out to be a Burnet Companion moth (as usual I got it identified on the Wild About Britain web site). I continued across a large empty pasture, with the large buildings of Arizona Farm ahead and slightly to my left (California is a fairly popular place name, but this is the only Arizona Ive come across on my walks). Soon I was again following the left-hand hedge of another arable field, where I managed to photograph a Yellowhammer on a wire along here. I then crossed a large empty paddock. I passed a man coming the other way with two dogs I said Good Morning! but he completely ignored me. Strange still, if he wants to be a rude ignorant fellow thats his problem, not mine. I wouldnt dream of saying hello to a stranger in a town or city, but when passing someone in the countryside it is usual to greet them politely. Anyway, I now reached a lane on the edge of Skirmett, where I turned right.
Like nearby Fingest, Skirmett has always been a hamlet within the parish of Hambleden. Unusually for this part of the country, its name is of Norse origin, meaning Shire meeting place. The popular village pub is called The Frog. It was originally the Kings Head but after it went through a spell when it had a bad reputation (for some reason) it was decided to rechristen it, to mark a break with the past. Apparently the new name was chosen because Skirmett rhymes with Kermit!
A short distance down the lane, I turned onto a path going left. I followed the field edge of the boundary on my left, in a very large meadow, with the houses of Skirmett a short distance further left. The path followed the left edge of the meadow, then turned right along the wooden fence on the far edge due to the rather irregular shape of the meadow, it was effectively going around two sides of a triangle. At one point I saw footpaths through the grass taking a short-cut direct to the far corner, but I resisted the temptation to follow them. When I did get to the far corner, I found the wooden gate there had been paid for by Cherry Red records I have come across numerous new stiles and gates while Ive been walking the Chiltern Chain Walk, often with signs indicating they were provided by walker groups, or by local residents, or individuals, or in memory of someone, but I think this is the first one Ive come across thats been paid for by a company.
I crossed a corner of another meadow. Close to a corner of a lane I turned up a hedge-lined chalky track heading quite steeply uphill towards a wood. I noticed some Woody Nightshade growing here, as I trudged slowly along it was now very warm and I was glad to reach the cooling shade of the trees of Adams Wood (another wood managed by the Woodland Trust). The chalky path continued uphill through the wood, the gradient easing after a short while. It was very pleasant following the path through the trees, now rising very slowly and easily. On the far side of the wood I reached a track, where I went a few yards to the left to a gateway. The path, still following the route of the Chiltern Way, now crossed a hilltop meadow with woods on three sides, the fourth side dipping out of view into the valley below. On the far side of the meadow, the path ran for a hundred yards or so through Fingest Wood.
I left the wood by going over Fairfields Stile, named in honour of a renowned nature writer, who understandably loved this spot. One of the posts supporting the stile had the grid reference carved into it. This is a terrific viewpoint, looking down over the village of Fingest which lies close to where five valleys meet (including the Hambleden valley) – on the hilltop behind Fingest stands the white Cobstone Mill.
I turned left, following the edge of the wood as it curved right and down the slope. The huge pasture I was in was empty today, but there are sometimes sheep here. I continued along a hedgerow through a field in the bottom of the valley, reaching a lane on the far side where I turned right to enter Fingest. I turned right opposite the Chequers pub, finally leaving the Chiltern Way but briefly retracing part of my previous walk. The church with its massive Norman church was now on my left. Walk 14 had used a path that came in on my right, but I continued on down the lane as it left the village. The lane was narrow and hedge-lined, but fortunately very quiet and only one vehicle passed me here. Beyond the hedge on the right were large sheep pastures, sloping up to Hanger Wood which I went through two days ago. The lane turned slightly to the left, and then I took a bridleway going off half-left.
The bridleway started off as a green tunnel, with the trees and bushes either side completely overhanging the path. It was quite muddy too thered been a few days of rain before my last walk and then more rain yesterday, so Id taken the precaution of wearing my gaiters today. After a while the green tunnel ended, and the path continued between the fences and hedges of large corn fields, sloping up on either side of the bridleway. I noticed some White Campion growing here, as well as the fairly ubiquitous Herb Robert and Germander Speedwell. It was still wet underfoot along here, and continued to be so as the bridleway entered a long thin belt of trees. After a while, the trees spread out to my left into a wood, though there were still fields a short distance away to my right. After following the bridleway for about a mile and a quarter, it turned left through the trees (a footpath continued along the valley bottom). A short distance further on it reached a track, where it again turned left. I emerged from the wood and passed a cottage and barn that were being worked on, and the track became a cement drive that went steeply uphill there were good views to the right, along the valley Id been walking along from Fingest. At the top of the slope I reached the road that runs through the village of Ibstone.
Ibstone is in Buckinghamshire but borders Oxfordshire at one time the county boundary passed through the parlour of the villages manor house. The name derives from the Anglo-Saxon Hibbas boundary stone. At the time of Edward the Confessor the village was known as Hibestanes. The 900 year old parish church of St Nicholas stands separate from the rest of the village.
As I turned left, I immediately passed the village Infants School from the picture of a Red Kite on the school sign, I deduced that the teachers were very wise and the pupils very intelligent! The after-school club was called the Kites Club, so the village is obviously proud of the magnificent birds they have flying overhead. I often see them here when I drive through, and one flew overhead now as I followed the road, passing a junction on the right. After another couple of hundred yards I took a footpath on the right, entering another wood. The path headed slightly left through the trees, which were here mainly conifers. I saw some Foxgloves growing here. The wood went downhill to my right, the path very slowly descending a little way down the slope. Further on I left the conifers and the path continued through a youngish plantation, the trees protected by plastic tubing and stakes. I kept left where a path came in sharply from the right and soon reached another junction (the white arrows on a tree were a bit hard to spot), where I turned right for a few yards to reach a gate. The path didnt go through the gate, but turned left, running between the edge of the wood and the wire fence of a huge sheep pasture sloping down into the valley on my right.
This path continued for several hundred yards, with nice views across the valley and ahead towards Turville. Eventually the path came to a stile in the wire fence, and then went across a corner of the pasture to another stile. I saw an unusually adventurous sheep here it squeezed through a gap beside a gate to get back into the pasture, and slowly dawdled off towards its companions who were several hundred yards away at the other end. The path now led through scrubby bushes, and for the second walk in a row I saw some Common Spotted Orchids. The bushes gave way to trees, and then I reached a gate. The last time I was here (on an unsuccessful mission to get decent photographs of Kites and Buzzards) I discovered an escaped Harris Hawk! The path cut across the corner of a rough pasture on a steep hillside to a pair of gates, and then continued across a large meadow to reach Turville, with Cobstone Mill up on the hilltop to my left.
Like Hambleden and Cobstone Mill, Turville is often used as a setting for films and TV. In recent years it has acquired a certain fame as the setting for The Vicar of Dibley (a pleasant enough comedy that has its moments, and written by Richard Curtis whom I greatly admire, but how on earth was it recently voted third best British sitcom ever?)
When I walked through here in 2005, the signpost for the Chiltern Way was pointing completely the wrong way I heard later that it had been put back incorrectly by a film crew. There is an interesting story relating to the church in Turville. In 1900, an ancient stone coffin was discovered buried under the floor when opened up, it was found to contain not only the body of a thirteenth-century priest, but also that of a seventeenth-century woman with a bullet hole in her skull! (Perhaps an earlier attempt to install a female vicar in Dibley hadnt been quite so successful!).
As I photographed the villages pub and church, a coach pulled up carrying a load of tourists. I hurried on my way, following the lane to the school and continuing on along a footpath between overhanging hedges. These ended at a gate into a large meadow, where another path crossed I stopped here to eat my lunch sat on a stile. The path continued on along a hedgerow on the right looking back, there was a good view of Cobstone Mill. About halfway along the meadow, I took a path forking left through the grass and going slightly downhill to another stile and a lane. I followed the lane a short distance to the right, then continued on a bridleway where the lane went right.
Cobstone Mill stands on top of a hillside between Turville and Fingest. It overlooks a point where four smaller valleys meet and the Hambleden Valley starts southwards to the Thames. The white-painted, eighteenth-century smock mill is thus visible for some distance in several directions. Like the village of Turville below it, it is a popular setting for films and TV, and is probably best known as the windmill in the film Chitty Chitty Bang Bang.
The bridleway ran through a wood, and had a very stony surface. It seemed in places that the track had been surfaced with stones or flints, but no drainage channels had been put in, so after heavy rain water had scoured quite deep ruts along the track. It was a long section through the wood, about a mile and a quarter. I noticed more Foxgloves, some Crosswort and some Yellow Pimpernel beside the track. It was as usual very pleasant walking amongst the green trees. The track curved left and then right, but generally heading south-west, at one point having a field visible above a slight bank on the right. When I finally got to the far side of the wood I turned left, following a path uphill just inside the wood (I was briefly on the route of the Shakespeares Way here, which runs from Stratford-upon-Avon to London). At the top of the hill I crossed an empty pasture, to reach the corner of a lane where I continued straight ahead.
After quarter of a mile or so, I turned left on a bridleway that went past a farm and then continued between hedges, with sheep in a pasture on the left and an arable field on the right. It then entered another wood here the way was very muddy in places as the the bridleway descended slightly, though there was usually an alternative path to avoid the boggy bits. I spotted a couple of Fallow Deer here, in the trees to my right Id been surprised that Id not seen any more of them since those I saw in Ashridge on Walk 3, I usually see them far more often than this in the Chilterns. A bit further on a fallen tree completely blocked the bridleway, and I had to scramble up and down a bank on my left to get over and around it.
The bridleway now descended gently through mainly birch trees, to reach a path junction near the bottom of a slight valley. Here I turned right, now following a well surfaced track with the valley bottom just down to my left and the wood sloping up on my right. The trees here were now mainly conifers, and I saw several yew trees just to my right. A bit further right, at the bottom of the valley, were some very colourful Rhododendrons. The track was very slightly downhill as the valley broadened out, making this a nice easy section in the shade of the trees.
The bridleway continued beyond the end of the wood, still on a well-surfaced track which slowly followed the valley as it curved to the right. There were a few brown and white cattle in a field on the right, then a few more in a larger pasture on the left. Looking down the valley ahead of me I could see a hillside running across, which I knew from the map was on the other side of the River Thames. Eventually I passed a cottage on my right, and a few yards further on I turned left onto another bridleway. This started off between hedges and then ran along just inside the right edge of Ridge Wood, the trees sloping up the hillside on my right. A few feet to my right were fields in the flat Thames Valley. The bridleway then ran for a few yards along a drive beside cottages on the right to reach a lane, just south of Hambleden.
I had to go a few yards right, away from the village, before turning left along a bridleway on the other side of the lane. This was a wide track between hedges, but had several large puddles that crossed it completely. I ignored a path going off across a meadow beside the Hambleden Brook, but stopped to photograph the village across the meadow. I soon came to a track junction, where I turned left. It was only a few hundred yards now to where a path went left, across the end of a sports ground and back to the car park in Hambleden.
It was around 3.45pm when I got back to my car, so again a very slow walk for some reason. Not really sure why.
This was a very enjoyable walk and an excellent route (if I do say so myself!). I first walked most of the route at the beginning of 2007 when I came walking here specifically because I wanted to see some Red Kites, but on that occasion I followed the direct route from Fingest to Turville (as does the Chiltern Way). It was such a good walk that I hoped to include it as it was in the Chiltern Chain Walk, but it was a little bit short for my purposes and in the end I needed to extend it out to Ibstone to link up with the next walk.
I have walked round the Hambleden area several times now, and fully understand why it is one of the most popular parts of the Chilterns. The countryside is particularly lovely here, with wide valleys rising to wooded hilltops, and there is much of historic and other interest in the attractive villages of Hambleden, Fingest and Turville.
Total distance: 186.2 miles
Walk 16 5/06/08 Cowleaze Wood and Ibstone (11.9 miles approximately)
Parked on road at Cowleaze Wood.
When I arrived at Cowleaze Wood this morning, I was very surprised to see that the large car park had been closed because of forestry operations. I assume that this is only temporary. Anyway I managed to park off the road by the car park, and started my walk about 10.10am. Unusually this was the second successive day that Id walked, and in fact my third walk in four days the gloomy weather forecast for the next few days had rather forced this upon me.
I walked through the car park, parallel to the road on my right, and continued on a path through the trees that soon joined the road. I followed the road for a few yards, then took a footpath on the right, just past the end of a belt of trees. The path went diagonally across a large cattle pasture, heading for the left end of a row of tall conifers. Some young bullocks over to the left stared at me as I went by most of them were lying on the ground, which is meant to be a sign of impending rain, but it was a nice bright morning. The path then went downhill through a small area of wood to a kissing-gate.
A wonderful view now opened up, as the path descended at a steady gradient down the northern escarpment of the Chilterns, with the Oxfordshire Plain spread out before me. Curiously, the path seemed to be aiming directly at the distant eyesore of Didcot Power Station. The downland that I walked through here was studded with many bright yellow flowers not the usual buttercups (although there were a few of these) but mainly Common Rock-rose, which Ive never seen before in such profusion.
At the bottom of the slope, I went through a kissing-gate and followed the path along the bottom of the hillside, between a wood on my left and the wire fence of a corn field on my right. From previous walks I knew that the Ridgeway ran along behind the hedge on the far side of the field. The path turned right and then left, still following the edge of the field, and eventually reached a gate. Beyond this the path continued with bushes now on either side. I spotted a Red Kite nearby as the path contoured round the bottom of the hillside sloping up to my left.
The path ended at a surfaced drive, where I turned left, joining the route of the Oxfordshire Way (Ive no plans to do all of this long-distance path, as much of it is more than an hours drive from my home). The drive went past a timber merchants, a cattery and Pyrton House, all on the right. Where the drive ended, the path continued ahead, initially on a broad strip of grass, heading quite steeply up the wooded slopes of Pyrton Hill. The path followed a fence on the left, the grass strip soon being replaced by bushes and trees. I paused to take a photo looking back over the Oxfordshire plain, then continued on up through the trees and bushes. It wasnt too far before a meadow or pasture started on the right here I went over a stile and followed a path going half-right, continuing on the Oxfordshire Way as the path followed the right edge of the field to reach a road just outside Christmas Common.
According to Wikipedia Christmas Common takes its name from the Christmas family who were once local landowners. However another version is that it takes its name from an event in 1643 during the Civil War, when the Parliamentarians held Watlington while the Royalists defended the ridge on which the village was situated. A truce was declared for Christmas Day, and both sides met and socialised here during the festivities. The small village church was built in 1889, and is now a private residence (complete with gravestones in the garden).
I followed the road to the right (Cowleaze Wood was a mile or so to the left), soon passing a turning to the right (my next walk will start at a car park about quarter of a mile down that road, on Watlington Hill). I kept on the road as it turned slightly right where another road forked left. I passed a few houses and the Fox and Hounds pub on my right, then turned left on a footpath, with the converted church on my right. The path ran through Queen Wood for a short distance, ending at a path junction by a garden fence, where I followed a driveway a few yards to the left to reach a lane. I turned right along this lane, with tall hedges or fences either side, until I reached a bridleway going left after about 200 or 300 yards.
The bridleway descended through another wood, Priors Grove, before turning right to follow a valley bottom. This was still wooded, at some point becoming Fire Wood. The bridleway, part of the Oxfordshire Way again, was a little muddy in places but not too bad. It was almost imperceptibly going downhill as it followed the bottom of the widening valley. The wood was quite mixed, some parts being predominantly conifer, other parts being more like typical beech woods. There was some Red Campion here, as well as the more usual wildflowers. I came to a crossing path, part of the Chiltern Way, where the Oxfordshire Way turned right but I continued straight ahead. This was a lengthy but pleasant and easy section of the route. I was now close to the edge of the wood, and could see through the trees to fields on my left.
After following the bridleway for about a mile and a half, it finally emerged from the woods. There was still a line of mature trees to my left, while on the right was an empty pasture or paddock. I noticed that the gate in the wooden fence on my right was wide open here. The bridleway curved round to the right, following the edge of the same field and now with another wood on the left. I passed a small enclosure on the right containing numerous young calves, then passed Turville Park farm, where a tanker was delivering fuel. The farm drive soon turned left, but the bridleway continued ahead, still following the winding valley bottom. There was a large field with young calves on my left, and then the bridleway followed a mature hedge on the left of a large corn field which sloped up to a wood on my right. After a few hundred yards, the bridleway switched to the left of the hedgerow, where there were now further corn fields.
A bit further on I reached a crossing path, where I turned left and followed a wide track going steadily uphill between two corn fields. At the far side of the fields, near the top of the hill, there was a bench and a picnic table by some trees, obviously put here because of the views. To my right was the Stonor valley, and I could see where Id crossed it on the Chiltern Way. Looking back and left I could see the largely wooded valley that Id just followed for about two miles. I continued on my way, now on a wide track between hedges and fences, with cattle pastures to my left and arable fields on my right. At a point where the track turned right, I went through an old iron kissing gate and continued across the corner of a large pasture this was dotted with a few old trees as if it was the parkland of a great house at one point, and there were a few cows some distance to my left. The path continued across a meadow, where some sheep and goats were sheltering under a tree. The next meadow merged with the gardens of a house, the path keeping to the long grass and passing between the lawns on my left and a grand old beech tree to reach a kissing gate. The path then followed the drive of the house a few yards to reach a minor road by a junction.
I crossed over and followed the lane ahead of me, with trees and bushes on either side. After a hundred yards or so another lane came in on the right, and here I turned left onto a bridleway. I followed it the short distance through the trees and bushes of Turville Heath, bearing slightly left through an area of grass as I reached the hamlet of the same name. A fingerpost indicated where the bridleway continued, going steeply downhill between hedges at first and continuing downhill through a beech wood (looking on the map, this may be part of the interestingly named Idlecombe Wood). The path curved right then left, leaving the wood and running between hedges again, with sheep pastures either side, to reach a lane where I turned right.
I soon came to a path junction, where a footpath crossed the lane and another bridleway went half-left this was the route I followed. The bridleway went through more woodland, bearing right at a junction. A few yards further on, I forked left onto a footpath. This crossed the drive of a farm (just to my left) and exited the wood at a stile. I now followed a wire fence on my right, which separated two sheep pastures complete with cute lambs. I was now heading steeply uphill, and to my right I could look along the valley towards Turville where Id been yesterday. Over a stile, I continued alongside a hedgerow and then a wood on my right, a large meadow of tall grass now sloping down into another valley on my left. The path levelled out as it ran beside the wood, and after a while it went over a stile and climbed steeply through the woods for a short distance. It soon turned sharp right and levelled out at this point I took a very short detour into the adjacent churchyard to photograph Ibstone Church.
The fairly level path then continued through the wood. After a few hundred yards I came to a path junction where I turned right, leaving the wood and crossing a large paddock to reach a junction where the lane from the church reached the road through Ibstone. I followed the road to the left, almost immediately passing the village school on my right (wise teachers and intelligent pupils who obviously appreciate the local Red Kites!). After about a quarter of a mile I turned left on a path between wooden garden fences, which soon reached the same wood and same path Id been on before, where I turned right the slight detour in and out of Ibstone was an admittedly somewhat contrived way of linking this walk to the previous one, but didnt really detract from the quality of todays walk.
The path now continued for some distance through the wood (mainly beech, I think), very gradually descending into a small valley on my left. When it reached the valley bottom, it turned left up the opposite slope, with the fence of a field closeby on my left. This was a steep but short section, soon emerging on a lane or drive in Ibstone. I went a few yards to the right, to where the large grassy expanse of Ibstone Common started on the left, and turned left on a bridleway. This runs along a drive between the common and garden hedges on the left, then passes through a small area of trees and crosses another drive, before following a hedgerow beside the common on the right. I took a short detour here across the common, to eat my sandwiches on a bench beside the village cricket pitch.
I returned to the bridleway along the edge of the common, noticing the large stone in the middle of the common (Ive not been able to find anything out about it, but I dont think its the original boundary stone that gives the village its name). Where the edge of the common curved to the right, I went straight on into a wood. Within yards I reached a path junction, where I turned left onto a bridleway. A notice announced that I was entering the Wormsley estate, and the bridleway descended quite steeply through the wood, the path being a very narrow chalk gulley. Initially I was on the Chiltern Way again, but about halfway down the hill this forked left onto a footpath (I remember missing this junction once!). The bridleway curved right, and emerged from the wood near the bottom of the slope, continuing on a good track along the bottom of a broad valley.
The track soon ended at a sharp corner of an estate drive, the right of way continuing along it in the same northerly direction. There were some mature trees beside the drive, and then a wood on the right. I passed a farmyard and a thatched cottage on the left, and then turned left on a bridleway rising uphill through another wood. This was quite a lengthy but reasonably gentle climb as this was my third walk in four days I was a bit more tired than usual, and had been counting down how many more short ascents Id got left. The path levelled out soon enough, and it was a very pleasant section through the trees of Langleygreen plantation.
When I reached a crossing footpath, I turned left. The path descended quite steeply for a very short distance, before turning slightly to the left and thus easing the angle of descent through the trees. It emerged from the wood, and continued downhill at an angle, now crossing a meadow. In the valley bottom, I passed to the left of Lower Vicars Farm to reach another drive. I turned left for a few yards, before going over a stile in the hedge on my right. The path went uphill through a huge meadow I was relieved that it wasnt quite as steep as I remembered it, but it looked even further than Id expected to the far side. It was just a matter of plodding steadily onwards and upwards, and I resorted to my usual trick in such situations. I started to think about a certain manager from my days at BT, a really unpleasant and incompetent individual who used to make totally ignorant and completely inaccurate remarks about my work. Thinking about him always makes my blood boil and the adrenaline flow, and I find I get up the hill almost without realising it! It certainly worked today – as I came out of my angry reverie, I was amazed how close I was to the top of the meadow.
I went through a gate and entered Cowleaze Wood. Almost immediately I met a woman coming the other way with a St Bernard dog (Id see her again later, along the road just after Id started my drive home). There was clear evidence that there really was forestry work going on here, with branches and logs left lying on the ground amongst the conifers. I followed the path through the wood, looking out for the sculptures that are located here. Or at least they were I went past one, which consisted of two triangular cement columns. I was sure that when I first went past here (last October, on one of my exploratory walks) there were some images on each of the sides of the columns, but now they had gone I could see the rectangular spaces where theyd been. I wondered whether the images have been stolen or vandalised, or just temporarily removed for protection while the forestry work is carried out (in fact Ive just checked on the internet, and the sculptures have been removed due to a lack of funding!). It was a straightforward half-mile walk through the wood and I was back to the closed car park and my car parked on the road.
I was a little tired today, so didnt quite enjoy the walk as much as I should have done. But it was still very enjoyable, and like yesterdays walk I think it is an excellent route. Also like that walk, when I first walked round this area on an exploratory walk, I thought it such a good route that Id like to include it unaltered in the Chiltern Chain Walk, but in the end had to alter it slightly to link in with the other walks. My original route had taken a more direct path from Turville Heath to Ibstone Common, but I had needed to extend it out to near Ibstone church to link with Walk 15.
I dont think Ive been doing the walks justice, really Im sure these journal entries are not as enthusuaistic about the walks as they should be. The problem is that I first did some exploratory walks to help work out where I wanted the Chiltern Chain Walk to go, and then did each of the twenty walks in the wrong direction (clockwise or anti-clockwise) in order to check the details of the route and to determine which direction was best for each walk. While I still think that I needed to do that (I actually made a couple of slight changes to the route), it means that Ive done most of these walks a couple of times already, in one direction or another. So I am not seeing them through a fresh pair of eyes, and so am not as enthusiastic about them as I should be. I can only say that when I first did this walk (as I say, very slightly different to todays walk) I thought it was absolutely brilliant, and could hardly imagine a better walk in the Chilterns! Admittedly, it was October when the autumn colours were near their best, but I still think that this is an exceptional walk. There are great views from a number of places, lots of ups and downs, a large percentage of the walk is through very pleasant woodland, with enough field paths to add variety, and it passes through some attractive and interesting villages and hamlets.
Total distance: 198.1 miles